Rockfax Description
55m. A long walk for a hard route but it is a great climb tackling the centre of the impressive orange wall right of Carnmore Corner. Start left of the first recess of the curving fault undercutting the right wall. Move up a slab to the recess and pull out right to a pedestal. From a short rib, follow an arching crack-line out left to a small ledge and gain a larger overhung ledge. From a handrail above, move hard right to a hollow flake and climb boldly up and right to a slight crack. Pull out left to quartzy holds (cam on the left). Head up to a large triangular niche and enter it from the right. From this haven, arrange plenty of gear. Pull directly out of the niche and make big moves up an incipient crack to a finger flake, then follow crimps out right to a horizontal break. Further big moves up a faint crack-line and a lunge gains the big horizontal break and a shakeout (thread and cams). A further hard move gains a diagonal crack and improving holds to a respite in the angle. Go up to a big diagonal crack with a spike and finish directly.
FA I.Small, M.Jamieson, 7 Jun 2014 © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The stunning wall left of The Orange Bow.
Iain Small, Murdo Jamieson 2014.
Hardest Scottish Trad , Ultimate Scottish Rock , 4 Star Scottish rock , Wired Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
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anguskille | 11 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Thread replaced June 2021 with bomber thick static. 55m route but managed it with one of our 60m ropes having been chopped slightly. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Thread replaced June 2021 with bomber thick static. 55m route but managed it with one of our 60m ropes having been chopped slightly. |
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Grade: E8 6c ***
(Glen Pean)