UKC Logbook - 'Fratricide Wall'

Rockfax Description
A classic long and complex line up a steep wall. Sustained with plenty of hard moves and some good rests, but it is thin on gear.
1) 4c, 21m. Climb a steep crack to a ledge. Follow the slim groove above, then easier ground back leftwards to a good stance.
2) 5a, 23m. A complex pitch. Climb a steep crack and wall to good ledges. Balance precariously right then pull up to the base of a scoop. Climb the groove above to a peg, then swing right to the arete for an airy exit. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Alex's Wales ticklist , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Thank god I don't have to do that again , Bold Tradprenticeship

Feedback Always Hide βeta

User	Date		Notes
Deezel65	6 Apr	Show βeta βeta: The final traverse to the arete is much lower than expected. Go up and get some good in the obvious groove/corner crack you can see from the ground then come all the way back down and then step round on to the arete for a finale that’ll put hairs on your chest.
Show beta βeta: The final traverse to the arete is much lower than expected. Go up and get some good in the obvious groove/corner crack you can see from the ground then come all the way back down and then step round on to the arete for a finale that’ll put hairs on your chest.
Peter Agnew	22 Jul, 2024	Show βeta βeta: The peg is long gone, but you can get excellent wires high up in the corner crack before stepping right to the arete. A fabulous climb which requires a steady head to traverse out on the ramp early in pitch two.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The peg is long gone, but you can get excellent wires high up in the corner crack before stepping right to the arete. A fabulous climb which requires a steady head to traverse out on the ramp early in pitch two.
mattdarli92	14 Apr, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Really hard and really really scary. And then you find a hold! Three stars all day!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Really hard and really really scary. And then you find a hold! Three stars all day!
spidey	3 Aug, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Bold along trav, small wire but hard to see how good it is. Arete is brilliant.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Bold along trav, small wire but hard to see how good it is. Arete is brilliant.
Paul Sagar	14 May, 2019	Show βeta βeta: The moves at the very top are inadequately protected by the peg and way, way harder than 5a. If you screw this section up you WILL deck on the ledge below. A climb for leaders with a grade or two in hand, only. Edit: a friend informs me that I’m an idiot and going direct at the end is wrong and I should have gone right to the arête. Y’know like it says in the guidebook.
Show beta βeta: The moves at the very top are inadequately protected by the peg and way, way harder than 5a. If you screw this section up you WILL deck on the ledge below. A climb for leaders with a grade or two in hand, only. Edit: a friend informs me that I’m an idiot and going direct at the end is wrong and I should have gone right to the arête. Y’know like it says in the guidebook.
Peter271263	9 May, 2019	Show βeta βeta: The 2nd pitch is excellent.
Show beta βeta: The 2nd pitch is excellent.