34m.

Rockfax Description
A great pitch up the steep, shallow groove overlooking the gully.
1) 26m. As for Lot's Wife.
2) 5a, 30m. Move out right to reach the groove. Climb up this - sustained and exposed but excellent and with good protection throughout. Either finish up Direct Route, Lot's Wife or tackle The Right-Hand Crack as described below.
3) 8m. Move left to belay below the twin cracks.
4) 5b, 15m. Move up the crack to where it splits and climb the right-hand crack. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
1.5a 2.3b

1.93e+03 Jan/1993

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Kirkus Routes, MIA logbook must haves!, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Colin Kirkus' routes

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Chris Manasseh 20 Sep Lead With 1st pitch of Chasm Route and Hodgkin's Variation to finish
with Trev Smith
With 1st pitch of Chasm Route and Hodgkin's Variation to finish
with Trev Smith
Hidden 14 Sep AltLd O/S
Dan Arkle 24 Aug 2nd
with Donie
with Donie
ebutton 3 Jun AltLd O/S Solo'ed first pitch in approach shoes, led second pitch - really really good corner/slab. Technical and thought provoking. Dean led the tussle that is RH crack
with Dean
Solo'ed first pitch in approach shoes, led second pitch - really really good corner/slab. Technical and thought provoking. Dean led the tussle that is RH crack
with Dean
DannyG 11 May 2nd
Lynnliu 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd dog
cperryhouts 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S First pitch was chill; we nearly solo'd it but thought better of it! Lynn was going to lead the first and second pitch but got a bit psyched out by the weird face moves a few meters into the second pitch and downclimbed. I then led the second pitch and she led the third (traverse) pitch. I mis-read the guidebook and thought the two cracks above were equivalent, and were described as having "aggressive jamming and lay-backing." Turns out the left crack was meant to be fairly chilled, while the right crack (which I of course arbitrarily chose) required said aggressive jamming and lay-backing. It was exciting, to say the least! When the crack got too wide to jam I struggled through it with my whole arms and shoulders and did some weird, fancy footwork but all the while was quite convinced I would fall. Fortunately placed a bomber blue cam before this cruxy off-width madness. Once done we had a hard time finding the descent and ended up abbing off tap
with Lynnliu
First pitch was chill; we nearly solo'd it but thought better of it! Lynn was going to lead the first and second pitch but got a bit psyched out by the weird face moves a few meters into the second pitch and downclimbed. I then led the second pitch and she led the third (traverse) pitch. I mis-read the guidebook and thought the two cracks above were equivalent, and were described as having "aggressive jamming and lay-backing." Turns out the left crack was meant to be fairly chilled, while the right crack (which I of course arbitrarily chose) required said aggressive jamming and lay-backing. It was exciting, to say the least! When the crack got too wide to jam I struggled through it with my whole arms and shoulders and did some weird, fancy footwork but all the while was quite convinced I would fall. Fortunately placed a bomber blue cam before this cruxy off-width madness. Once done we had a hard time finding the descent and ended up abbing off tap
with Lynnliu
bidean 10 Jun, 2018 2nd
Hidden 10 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 May, 2018 -
Hidden 7 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
sheelba 6 May, 2018 AltLd
with Naomi
with Naomi
TimvanRiessen ?Apr, 2018 2nd β
Rockley 27 Aug, 2017 AltLd
with ned_85
with ned_85
ned_85 27 Aug, 2017 AltLd
with Rockley, Tom Kingston
with Rockley, Tom Kingston
Hidden 27 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
mskngch 8 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S 2nd pitch left side
2nd pitch left side
HighChilternRidge ?Jul, 2017 -
Hidden 4 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
Alex Eperon 27 Aug, 2016 -
davebrox ??, 2016 -
Climbingspike ??, 2016 -
Ids1165 ??, 2016 AltLd
omaskrey 10 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
JoeCoxson 10 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead with Right Hand Crack. Groove was long and progressively harder with cold hands, but nice 3 dimensional climbing and bomber gear.
Lead with Right Hand Crack. Groove was long and progressively harder with cold hands, but nice 3 dimensional climbing and bomber gear.
sgl 11 Jun, 2015 Lead
with Jo B
with Jo B
Hidden 11 Jun, 2015 2nd
Dan Hale 18 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with Ollie Halford
with Ollie Halford
centurion05 ??, 2015 Lead O/S
with Jase
with Jase
erbridger 23 Sep, 2014 AltLd Done as one large multipitch with the first 2 pitches of chasm route and then the right hand finish (which was too hard to we finished up hodgskins variation).
Done as one large multipitch with the first 2 pitches of chasm route and then the right hand finish (which was too hard to we finished up hodgskins variation).
Kate Edhouse 21 Sep, 2014 AltLd Done as one large multipitch with the first 2 pitches of chasm route and then the right hand finish (which was too hard to we finished up hodgskins variation.
Done as one large multipitch with the first 2 pitches of chasm route and then the right hand finish (which was too hard to we finished up hodgskins variation.
Ian Stirrups 9 Aug, 2014 Lead Difficulties mainly in the first half. Tought this a little easier than Lots Wife
with Sue
Difficulties mainly in the first half. Tought this a little easier than Lots Wife
with Sue
Hidden 4 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
Pinguville 23 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S
George_Surf 23 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Good gear on this and mostly delicate bridging and small slopey holds. The steep bit isnt as bad as it looks but the climb is generally harder than it looked. Foot accidentally popped half-way up. Finished up the direct route, brutal.
Good gear on this and mostly delicate bridging and small slopey holds. The steep bit isnt as bad as it looks but the climb is generally harder than it looked. Foot accidentally popped half-way up. Finished up the direct route, brutal.
John Nuttall 16 May, 2014 2nd
with Andy H
with Andy H
Neil ??, 2014 Lead O/S
Si ??, 2014 -
Hidden ??, 2014 -
Simon Caldwell 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S C led the main pitch, I led the easy Chasm Route approach and the short steep corner to finish. Brilliant route, harder and steeper than it looks, but seemed to be lots of 4c rather than any 5a.
with Lemming
C led the main pitch, I led the easy Chasm Route approach and the short steep corner to finish. Brilliant route, harder and steeper than it looks, but seemed to be lots of 4c rather than any 5a.
with Lemming
Hidden 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
lithos 15 Jul, 2013 Lead brilliant, soft and well protected but lovely
with tony w
brilliant, soft and well protected but lovely
with tony w
martrin 8 Sep, 2012 Lead
with Sarah Kekus
with Sarah Kekus
peter myers ?Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
peter myers ?Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
Shaw Brown 26 May, 2012 Lead
with Neil Harvey
with Neil Harvey
Hidden ??, 2012 -
uphillnow ??, 2012 2nd
with Stuart Holmes
with Stuart Holmes
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 -
al99 15 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Lee Wales
with Lee Wales
tim20 20 Jun, 2011 AltLd
tmawer 4 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S I led easy 1st pitch.
I led easy 1st pitch.
Hidden 4 Jun, 2011 AltLd
aged_ape 29 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
1906johns 28 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S
Hidden 17 Apr, 2011 Lead
Hidden 17 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
The_Boy_ODwyer 9 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S lead groove
with Colin Harvey
lead groove
with Colin Harvey
Hidden 9 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden 3 Sep, 2010 Lead
Hidden 2 Sep, 2010 Lead
david morse 22 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S
with owain
with owain
Hidden 5 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Ows ?Jun, 2010 AltLd
hepitt 31 May, 2010 2nd O/S Nice climb, one to lead
with Rob Pitt
Nice climb, one to lead
with Rob Pitt
Rob Pitt 31 May, 2010 Lead O/S
with Helen Pitt
with Helen Pitt
matt.woodfield 15 May, 2010 Lead
Hidden 1 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ?May, 2010 Lead
mynyddresident ?Apr, 2010 AltLd Nails offwidth
Nails offwidth
Ralfy 27 Mar, 2010 2nd O/S Absail off after first pitch
with Mike
Absail off after first pitch
with Mike
mark4344 22 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S Good sustained climbing. never too hard and good pro.
with Michel and james
Good sustained climbing. never too hard and good pro.
with Michel and james
Hidden 22 Aug, 2009 2nd O/S
Hidden 25 Jul, 2009 Lead
nakedave ?Jul, 2009 Lead
Ken Taylor 1 Jun, 2008 Lead
with Hilary Robertson, Chris Michalak
with Hilary Robertson, Chris Michalak
Hidden 8 Jun, 2007 2nd
richardr ?Apr, 2007 -
Ed Babs 24 Aug, 2006 Lead O/S
with Kate
with Kate
mikehenesy ?Jun, 2006 2nd O/S Well actually I slipped at the top but only because I'm rubbish.
with Chris Lodge
Well actually I slipped at the top but only because I'm rubbish.
with Chris Lodge
Ian McNeill ??, 2006 -
Hidden ?May, 2005 AltLd
Small and weak ?May, 2004 AltLd
Sut 16 Oct, 2003 Lead O/S
John Kettle ??, 2003 Lead
PaulTclimbing ??, 2003 -
caradoc 13 May, 2001 AltLd O/S
with IanH
with IanH
lost.arrow ?May, 2001 AltLd
with Perry Yapp
with Perry Yapp
nigehughes ?Aug, 2000 Lead
with Toby Buchan
with Toby Buchan
alan moore ??, 2000 - Nice, technical bridging with no great difficulties.
Nice, technical bridging with no great difficulties.
Iain Brown 31 Jul, 1999 -
with Matthew
with Matthew
Tenko 8 Aug, 1998 AltLd
with JAck Pezzey and Dave Allen
with JAck Pezzey and Dave Allen
FatRob 20 May, 1998 Lead O/S
with Jim Strange
with Jim Strange
Hidden ??, 1998 AltLd
five ?Sep, 1997 Lead O/S
with CH, TW
with CH, TW
Hidden 10 Aug, 1997 AltLd
Hidden 17 Aug, 1996 2nd O/S
Ched ??, 1993 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
with Glanfor
Rob Davies 31 Mar, 1990 Lead
with Angus McLean
with Angus McLean
babymoac 24 Jun, 1989 Lead
with Chris B
with Chris B
Hidden 6 May, 1989 Lead
Hidden ?Jul, 1984 Lead
kjacks ??, 1978 Lead
with John Cousins
with John Cousins
Bolt Phobia 17 May, 1977 Lead O/S
with Steve Astington
with Steve Astington
mikej 17 May, 1975 2nd
with Bill Church
with Bill Church
Gordon Stainforth 20 Sep, 1972 2nd
with John Stainforth
with John Stainforth
oldmanofmow ?May, 1962 Lead Brian Bates NSMC. A superb route the crack through the overhang is a gritstone severe at most but good protection.
Brian Bates NSMC. A superb route the crack through the overhang is a gritstone severe at most but good protection.
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 13
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set