Rockfax Description
A great pitch up the steep, shallow groove overlooking the gully.
1) 26m. As for Lot's Wife.
2) 5a, 30m. Move out right to reach the groove. Climb up this - sustained and exposed but excellent and with good protection throughout. Either finish up Direct Route, Lot's Wife or tackle The Right-Hand Crack as described below.
3) 8m. Move left to belay below the twin cracks.
4) 5b, 15m. Move up the crack to where it splits and climb the right-hand crack. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
1.5a 2.3b

1.93e+03 Jan/1993

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Kirkus Routes, MIA logbook must haves!, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist.

Rockley 27/Aug/17 AltLd
ned_85 27/Aug/17 AltLd
with James Wilson, Tom Kingston
dinodinosaur 27/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Can't take the 5b tick, seconded up lol groove and lead out of the winter finish for a fun Vdiff

with HannahC
HannahC 27/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Lead P2. Never desperate but lots of climbing! Finished up vdiff for a more chilled day

with Dino
mskngch 08/Jul/17 Lead O/S

2nd pitch left side

Pohil 04/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with SP
Alex Eperon 27/Aug/16 -
davebrox ??/2016 -
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
omaskrey 10/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
JoeCoxson 10/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Lead with Right Hand Crack. Groove was long and progressively harder with cold hands, but nice 3 dimensional climbing and bomber gear.

sgl 11/Jun/15 Lead
with Jo B
Hidden 11/Jun/15 2nd
Dan724 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Ollie Halford
centurion05 ??/2015 Lead O/S
with Jase
erbridger 23/Sep/14 AltLd

Done as one large multipitch with the first 2 pitches of chasm route and then the right hand finish (which was too hard to we finished up hodgskins variation).

Kate Edhouse 21/Sep/14 AltLd

Done as one large multipitch with the first 2 pitches of chasm route and then the right hand finish (which was too hard to we finished up hodgskins variation.

Ian Stirrups 09/Aug/14 Lead

Difficulties mainly in the first half. Tought this a little easier than Lots Wife

with Sue
Hidden 04/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Pinguville 23/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with George
George_Surf 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Good gear on this and mostly delicate bridging and small slopey holds. The steep bit isnt as bad as it looks but the climb is generally harder than it looked. Foot accidentally popped half-way up. Finished up the direct route, brutal.

John Nuttall 16/May/14 2nd
with Andy H
Neil ??/2014 Lead O/S
Si ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Simon Caldwell 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

C led the main pitch, I led the easy Chasm Route approach and the short steep corner to finish. Brilliant route, harder and steeper than it looks, but seemed to be lots of 4c rather than any 5a.

with Carmen
Hidden 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
lithos 15/Jul/13 Lead

brilliant, soft and well protected but lovely

with tony w
martrin 08/Sep/12 Lead
with Sarah Kekus
peter myers ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
peter myers ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Shaw Brown 26/May/12 Lead
with Neil Harvey
Hidden ??/2012 -
uphillnow ??/2012 2nd
with Stuart Holmes
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
al99 15/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
with Lee Wales
tim20 20/Jun/11 AltLd
tmawer 04/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

I led easy 1st pitch.

with andrea
Hidden 04/Jun/11 AltLd
aged_ape 29/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
1906johns 28/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 17/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
The_Boy_ODwyer 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

lead groove

with Colin Harvey
Hidden 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 03/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden 02/Sep/10 Lead
david morse 22/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with owain
Hidden 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Ows ?/Jun/10 AltLd
hepitt 31/May/10 2nd O/S

Nice climb, one to lead

with Rob Pitt
Rob Pitt 31/May/10 Lead O/S
with Helen Pitt
matt.woodfield 15/May/10 Lead
Hidden 01/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead
mynyddresident ?/Apr/10 AltLd

Nails offwidth

mark4344 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Good sustained climbing. never too hard and good pro.

with Michel and james
Hidden 22/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead
nakedave ?/Jul/09 Lead
Ken Taylor 01/Jun/08 Lead
with Hilary Robertson, Chris Michalak
Hidden 08/Jun/07 2nd
richardr ?/Apr/07 -
Ed Babs 24/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Kate
mikehenesy ?/Jun/06 2nd O/S

Well actually I slipped at the top but only because I'm rubbish.

with Chris Lodge
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/May/05 AltLd
mike fenwick ?/May/04 AltLd
with Ben Pearce
John Kettle ??/2003 Lead
caradoc 13/May/01 AltLd O/S
with IanH
lost.arrow ?/May/01 AltLd
with Perry Yapp
nigehughes ?/Aug/00 Lead
with Toby Buchan
alan moore ??/2000 -

Nice, technical bridging with no great difficulties.

Tenko 08/Aug/98 AltLd
with JAck Pezzey and Dave Allen
Hidden ??/1998 AltLd
five ?/Sep/97 Lead O/S
with CH, TW
iskra2000 10/Aug/97 AltLd

JD pitch 1

with John Dale
Hidden 17/Aug/96 2nd O/S
Ched ??/1993 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Rob Davies 31/Mar/90 Lead
with Angus McLean
babymoac 24/Jun/89 Lead
with Chris B
Hidden 06/May/89 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/84 Lead
kjacks ??/1978 Lead
with John Cousins
Bolt Phobia 17/May/77 Lead O/S
with Steve Astington
mikej 17/May/75 2nd
with Bill Church
Gordon Stainforth 20/Sep/72 2nd
with John Stainforth
oldmanofmow ?/May/62 Lead

Brian Bates NSMC. A superb route the crack through the overhang is a gritstone severe at most but good protection.

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