Although situated on open access land the owners (Forestry Commission) from time to time are granted permisson to suspend public access to this venue in order to carry out forestry operations, including felling and timber extraction. However access to the cliff should not be affected, as long as climbers park in the village and walk up the track. Be aware that at some times due to forestry works that access might be limited, and forestry vehicles will be using the track.
Rockfax Description
The second of the classics follows the wall and slim groove in the centre of the crag. It can be climbed in one long pitch - 52m to reach a belay.
1) 4a, 17m. Climb a cracked groove then follow blocky ledges up above to a good stance.
2) 4c, 25m. Move up and right to gain the groove proper. After some tricky moves this leads more easily to a finish on the left. © Rockfax
North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , BSR multipitch routes , N Wales VS longlist
User | Date | Notes | ||
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cassaela | 18 Aug, 2024 |
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βeta: Couldn\'t find path down | βeta? | |
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βeta: Couldn't find path down |
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maclennan.richard | 16 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Small gear low down (from what I can remember) and a well protected crux. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Small gear low down (from what I can remember) and a well protected crux. |
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Butty | 6 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Great route in a fine position. A touch burly at the start but good holds, gear is plentiful with a well protected crux. 10/10 Abseiled off | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route in a fine position. A touch burly at the start but good holds, gear is plentiful with a well protected crux. 10/10 Abseiled off |
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spidey | 3 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Led second pitch. Another good line, upper part of this crag is the best. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Led second pitch. Another good line, upper part of this crag is the best. |
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Peter271263 | 9 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Great route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route. |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Glyder Fach)