Dates: 1 June to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
It has been reported that either Peregrines or Kesterels are nesting on the popular route Shadow Wall on Carreg Wastad, with eggs and one unfledged chick on the nest.
As these birds and their nests are legally protected, climbers are asked to avoid climbing the routes Shadow Wall to Trilon inclusive until the birds have fledged at the end of July.
A popular route following the left edge of the crag, with good gear on the first pitch and a bold second pitch.
1) 4b, 32m. As for The Wrinkle to a ledge below a small overhang. Move up right to a crack then make an exposed step left over the roof. Follow the crack to a second overlap and trend right below it to the large ledge and belay behind the large pinnacle on the left. You can walk off left from here if required.
2) 4a, 24m. Climb the wall to a quartz ledge, keeping left of the bulge. Then climb more easily to the terrace. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
1) 4b Solo to ledge at the foot of wall with no protection. Climb a sustained crack system to a small roof, move right and then step back up left (crux). Trend rightwards to belay at a huge flake/pinnacle.
2) 4a Move slightly left to climb the steeper than expected slab above the pinnacle to the top
2a) 4c The final pitch of Sun Valley makes an excellent alternative finish, raising the grade to VS. Above the belay and 2m R of the huge pinnacle is a steep, ragged hand crack. Follow this to a quartzy ledge below an overhang, work out how to reach the enticing jugs above and then haul over onto the slab which is followed to the top.
Connoisseur's Classic Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe , Ultimate HS ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , 50 more great HS routes , Joes North Wales VS spaff attack
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