65m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A popular route following the left edge of the crag, with good gear on the first pitch and a bold second pitch.
1) 4b, 32m. As for The Wrinkle to a ledge below a small overhang. Move up right to a crack then make an exposed step left over the roof. Follow the crack to a second overlap and trend right below it to the large ledge and belay behind the large pinnacle on the left. You can walk off left from here if required.
2) 4a, 24m. Climb the wall to a quartz ledge, keeping left of the bulge. Then climb more easily to the terrace. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
1) 4b Solo to ledge at the foot of wall with no protection. Climb a sustained crack system to a small roof, move right and then step back up left (crux). Trend rightwards to belay at a huge flake/pinnacle.
2) 4a Move slightly left to climb the steeper than expected slab above the pinnacle to the top

2a) 4c The final pitch of Sun Valley makes an excellent alternative finish, raising the grade to VS. Above the belay and 2m R of the huge pinnacle is a steep, ragged hand crack. Follow this to a quartzy ledge below an overhang, work out how to reach the enticing jugs above and then haul over onto the slab which is followed to the top.


Connoisseur's Classic Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe , Ultimate HS ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , 50 more great HS routes , Joes North Wales VS spaff attack


User Date Notes
gazj1986 3 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Lead pitch 2. Found pitch 1 pretty strenuous
Show beta
βeta: Lead pitch 2. Found pitch 1 pretty strenuous

Logged Ascents

1797 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Carreg Wastad

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 147 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 188
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 174
Votes cast 183
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Flake Crack Into Inspiration

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Carreg y Foel Gron)

Loading Notifications...