A rather scary route that breaches the roof that every other route avoids. Start three metres right of Shadow Wall at a big flake.1) 6a, 30m. Move up to the steep groove and climb up it until a wall leads you up and slightly right to a ledge on Trilon. Shuffle left to below a smooth upper groove and climb this to reach good holds on Shadow Wall. Move left to belay on one of the ledges below the impressive roof.2) 6a, 17m. Somewhere up there a line of undercuts mark the way through the roof. Strenuous climbing across this leads to an exciting transition onto the headwall. Bold and exposed climbing on some worrying rock leads directly to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
P1 (6a) 35m. start on the right hand side of the main face. Climb up to a huge flake. From here pull up and left to the base of a groove, climb this past a hollybush to a tricky exit. Climb spikes to the bottom of a slim (rp) groove. Thin technicalities gain the belay above on ledges beneath the roof of P2.
P2 (6a) 20m. Pull wildy on undercuts, to tricky moves establishing yourself on the headwall. A few more moves up the vague groove complete this classic.