The direct central line of the crag is a classic giving sustained climbing with some very hard moves. The nature of the rock means that many of the holds are less helpful than they appear. A lot of the fixed gear is now very old. Start below a clean V-groove.
1) 6a, 20m. Climb to the V-groove. At its top, move leftwards and climb the wall to a bulge. Move leftwards through this to a belay which has some old fixed gear.
2) 5c, 30m. Move left then climb diagonally up right to a small roof. Pull through this and go up the ramp. At its top pull back left through the top roof. © Rockfax
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