Rockfax Description
A brilliant line. Immaculate climbing in a sensational position with more protection than you might think, but still very airy.
1) 4b, 20m. As for Monkey Puzzle.
2) 5c, 40m. Move up the crack until a flake leads out onto the slab on the right. Make a tricky step up and right onto the arete and climb this boldly to the overlap (long sling runner and a cam 4 to help keep it in place). Pull over the roof above the chimney on invisible holds. Stalwart traditionalists will then move back onto the right arete and climb this to the top. Most people pull up into a crack and arrange gear and gain the arete slightly higher up where holds naturally lead you. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E3 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

The old James turnbull 26/Oct/16 2nd rpt
with aiden
JenShelley 02/Oct/16 AltLd
with Keith, Andy Brown
keitht 02/Oct/16 2nd

Followed Jen in the gathering darkness.

nniff 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S

33 years on from my last ascent! RP over the roof, then right to the arete. Bit of up and down at the roof, scuttling back underneath for a quick breather. When did one of the flakes on the upper slab get broken?

fuzzysheep01 11/Sep/16 2nd O/S
FlavioL1989 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Started at the base of the arÍte and also did the 'stalwart traditionalists' version as that seemed to be the route. Very good route. Very intense climb. Seemed pretty top end E3 to me.

w-watson 11/Sep/16 2nd dog
ChristinaAllen 06/Aug/16 2nd dog

Amazing climb, which Paul led despite the impending rain (it started properly while he was on the run-out top section). The friction had all but disappeared by the time I got to the overlap so I think there was nothing I could do but prusik over it and all the way to the top in the worsening downpour. A bit of an epic and a shame because I probably won't get a chance on it again. Not sure if this is "dogged" or "dnf" but my muscles are still screaming from the effort.

with Paul Clarkson
No? Yes! 23/Jul/16 Lead

Stepped off tree after placing side runner up in flake - shame to miss those moves if you follow Rockfax. Overlap crystals seemed fewer and smaller than when I last did the move in the 80's as 'easy' way onto Pincushion.) Yes, 3 star route !

with Rob
will9911 18/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Led the proper way, step right from the tree to the arete, up the arete, over the overhand and back up the arete. The wrockfax discription misses out the hard but good start.

with Tony Madden
Leo Woodhead 02/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route! The move through the overlap was committing. Once I plucked up the courage however, it was over quickly and not as bad as I'd originally thought. The upper section was bold and sharp, amazing friction. Did it as was described in the book, straight up the arete.

with Joe Hook
w.pettet-smith ?/Jun/16 Lead

Didn't fancy the overlap, slithered down the chimney to reorganise ropes then went over via pincushion then back to arête. Bit of a shambles! Still very enjoyable, still felt e3 to me.

with simon kimber
littleduck 16/May/16 Lead dnf

first pitch only

deacondeacon 15/May/16 Lead O/S

Did it in a one-er. 'That move' isn't too bad once you commit. I thought the technical crux was on the bottom arête and the scary crux on the top arête ( although I only had a baggy cam in the top gear slot). Thanks to the guys on the next route who gave me some route finding tips, I though it would be fine being an arête, it wasn't lol

soph 03/May/16 2nd rpt
with Gosia Lipinski
robpartridge 24/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Such a good a good route. Very sharp! Safe

with Helen
AdamFreeman 17/Apr/16 2nd O/S
breed 19/Mar/16 2nd
Hidden ??/2016 -
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
Sardien 22/Nov/15 2nd rpt

Chickened out of the lead at the last moment. Next time?!

with Andy Scott
FreddieSmith 20/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Overlap went with some outside the box thinking. The top slab is like velcro! Best E3 so far.

spalice 20/Oct/15 AltLd β

Did the easy pitch. Second pitch was loooovely climbing (...on a top rope!!)

Hidden 17/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Oct/15 Lead dnf
mynyddresident 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with KP
Hidden ?/Aug/15 Lead
jacob shieldhouse hadley 31/Jul/15 2nd O/S

brilliant, best E3 ever

James Oakes 23/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Fragmod 23/Jul/15 Lead
Rachel Slater 12/Jul/15 Lead β

Amazing, one of the best E3s I've done. Had a little beta from Anna which made it feel quite chill!

with Anna Gilyeat
anguskille 26/May/15 2nd

wish it was my lead, the top slab was great fun seconding

Adam Booth 26/May/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 24/May/15 TR dog
Andy Peak 1 26/Apr/15 AltLd

My god amazzin

with Si
Hidden 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/15 -
tom.e 07/Feb/15 2nd O/S
with Dan
dobby 200 17/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

I lead P2. What an amazing climb! Just as I got to the roof 2 owls flew out of the big crack which was a massive shock! They are nesting in the back of the crack. It took me a while to commit to the moves through the roof but once I was on the upper Slab it was fun and technical airy climbing.

joedoherty 17/Jan/15 AltLd dog
Scooter Young ??/2015 Lead
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2015 -
phil64 ??/2015 -
Jacob Phillips ??/2015 Lead
Hidden 28/Dec/14 2nd
Dave Turnbull, BMC 28/Dec/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Dec/14 Lead O/S
Ally Smith 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Gareth
soph 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S
duncandarnell 01/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Crux overlap felt pretty straightforward, placed a couple of runners in pincussion crack afterwards wanted nothing to do with any nutty run outs. Joined the arete bout half height so still felt pretty bold tho

with neil philips
Ed morris 12/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Almost blown away by 20mph winds!

with stefan
bwestwood 07/May/14 2nd
pie_eater_pete 06/May/14 AltLd
Andrew Wilson 05/May/14 AltLd dnf
with Matt Nuttall
Andrew Sloan 30/Mar/14 2nd dog

Ended up 'frigging' the crux on a very tight rope.....definitely harder than 5c. The rest of the route was like an Ailefroide 6a+ slab without the bolts!

with Tony Ball
Hidden 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Dan Vaj 28/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with James McHaffie
Dan724 26/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Took ages to commit to the blind moves through the overlap!

BenRyle 26/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Nice lead by Dan, committing moves to overcome overlap. Ace route

with Dan
Dan-Cheetham ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 AltLd
with Al George
rustaldo 24/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Awesome! The roof is very blind and feels very committing, took awhile to psyche up for it. Definitely one to repeat, one of the best lines in N Wales for me.

with Alex
spidermonkey09 11/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Amazing pitch. Hands down the best route I've ever climbed. Fundamentally safe but would be a huge whipper if you went from the top slab. First E3.

TRFrost 10/Nov/13 2nd O/S
with J. Hulbert
Hidden 12/Oct/13 2nd dog
masa-alpin 12/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Done in 2 pitches. Used a side runner at the initial section of P2 as instructed (in the Ground Up guide). Exciting, sustained both physically and mentally, and fantastic route! Skyhook recommended!

with Luke A
The Grist 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Dibdawg 19/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Simon Lake (PYB)
Dale ?/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Upset about this. did all the moves fine up to the overhang. Had a few looks trying to find the best crystals to use. When I eventually commited to the move my foot was just on the foot hold on the lip about to weight it and I found my self air born. I accidently grabbed the rope resulting in very bad rope burnt fingers as it was quite a long fall. Had another go, lost my moe joe and fell again flipped upside down in the chimney. We Then abbed off. One to come back for

with johny
dswansonlow 19/May/13 Lead O/S
shed_hed 19/May/13 2nd O/S

Very nice.

wolf.leeb 06/May/13 Lead O/S

Really, really good.

with jo
tim newton 01/May/13 Lead O/S

Harder and scarier than I expected

Alex Mason 06/Feb/13 2nd β

Chilly in fading light. Such a superb route!

with Gwen Lancashire
Sardien 12/Jan/13 2nd β

Soooooooooooooooooooooo good!!!!! It will take me a while to get over how good that was

with Andy Scott
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
captain ??/2013 -
Hidden 11/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Michael Allday 11/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Bruce Houston ?/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
james.slater 12/May/12 Lead O/S

YES! What a route, bloody hard though, and runout! Glad ive finally done it! Fairly consistent 5c moves and very bold!

ben1987 12/May/12 AltLd dog

Hard roof crux.

Adam Coles 12/May/12 AltLd
with ben1987
Hidden 06/May/12 Lead O/S
Owain Llewelyn 02/May/12 Lead O/S
with Dan
dan ely 02/May/12 2nd O/S
with owian
markalmack 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Fucking cool!

with andy lole
Hidden 18/Mar/12 2nd
Adam Coles ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Tom Cox 02/Sep/11 2nd β
flatland_warrior 02/Sep/11 2nd dog
SteveJCox 02/Sep/11 2nd
Misha 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Mike D
MD 14/Aug/11 2nd dog
with Misha
chris sm 06/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Cheated at the bottom as i did not hop onto the arete in from the start. Also cheated at the top 'cause Jon went the wrong way - this was accidental.

givemetea 06/Jul/11 2nd O/S
dan gibson 06/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with roslyn mckendry
willoates 21/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Saw it in the guide and it looked amazing, then after the recommendation from Dave I had to get on it. Amazing route, although the wind was a real issue and I found pulling over the roof quite hard for 5c.

with Hayley Proctor, Dan Johnson
Hidden 21/Jun/11 2nd
Liam FLeming 20/Jun/11 Lead
with simon edwards
david morse 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Wanted to do this for ages, an immaculate route. One of the great lines of Tremadog

with katie
jacobjlloyd 19/Jun/11 2nd rpt

Silly arete!!!! I was so keen to not fall off of this that I didn't even commit to the roof moves. Figured it out, decided my foot wouldnt work so high, faffed for an hour or so, and lowered off without committing. A low point. Not something i want to make a habit of. Felix made it look so trivial that on second I breezed through it. Its amazing what difference a little fear and uncertainty can make to one's flexibility. Still, a fantastic climb, and one that demands plenty of raw skill as well as bravado. A lesson learned - when in doubt, might as well give it a go. It could turn out to be totally fine!

with Felix
feilx 19/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with Jake
adam06 05/Jun/11 2nd
with Ryan
spidey 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with adam
Hidden 04/Jun/11 2nd O/S
belay bunny turned bad 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with loundsy
Andrew Barker 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Incredible. Bold in places but not as intimidating as I thought it might be. Felt a bit weird stepping down off the tree onto the start of the arete. The roof was entertaining and the top arete was just really enjoyable.

with Si
ian d f 22/Apr/11 AltLd dnf

The gear free retreat at the roof was too tempting, those holds are small!

with Mark
Ed Booth 26/Mar/11 Lead

Lowered off from roof back in 06. Well good route.

Adam Booth 26/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Glyn 08/Mar/11 Lead O/S

In high winds and with numb fingers and toes. quite an experience for someone who doesn't do bold climbing!

with Luke
Luke Brooks 08/Mar/11 2nd
with Glyn Hudson
mr mills 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S

wop wop, about time, been on my list forever, I guess I must have gone up and down the overhang half a dozen times before committing, well worth the wait, conditions were perfect :)

with Gareth
halfmanhalfbiscuit ?/Mar/11 Lead

After retreating from below the roof in 2008. Excellent but, say it quietly, the top wall is an eliminate.

zero six ?/Mar/11 Lead

clean, after lowering from below crux a couple of years prior.

Marcus ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard - Consulting Editor ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Dave Parton ??/2011 -
pasbury ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
farmus21 21/Nov/10 Lead O/S

The move over the overhang is fine once you rock over and commit. Its just building up to doing it that takes the effort. Top section was bolder and more sustained than I expected. Truly excellent climbing, great line.

with Ben Allsford
phil64 16/Aug/10 Lead

25 years since last lead..... alzheimers onsight!

3 Names 18/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 14/Jun/10 AltLd O/S


with Harry
smallerrich 03/Jun/10 Lead O/S

In vertical order, starting from the tree: Gripping as f**k, really f**king hard, then amazing to the top. Its like a V4 problem getting through the overhang in the sweaty sweaty heat, those holds are tiny!! Are you meant to step straight onto the arete?

with Eugene
eugeneth 03/Jun/10 AltLd RP

Lead pitch 1 of the Quakermen (5a) to the tree belay. Rich lead the crux. Nails move through the overhang!!

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 01/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/10 Lead O/S
barni 16/Apr/10 Lead
with luke
Luke Brooks 16/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Barni
hervenuttall ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with matt b
simeclimb68 ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
richiebongo ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Gwen Thomson
Mike Goldthorp 11/Nov/09 Lead O/S

Top notch route. Jim Jewell... legend, I wana solo it too!

Hidden 12/Oct/09 2nd
Marti999 12/Oct/09 Lead O/S
mattyork2 10/Oct/09 Lead

3 1/4 hour epic. Scared over the roof and retreated left into pincushion crack.

with James Gray and Pete Ellis
Hidden 06/Aug/09 Lead O/S
mikeyjbs ?/Aug/09 Lead RP
with will woodhead
tom rookes 30/Jul/09 2nd
NeilGriffiths 25/Jul/09 -

Dead good

with Dave Almond
Dave Almond 25/Jul/09 2nd
Hidden 20/Jul/09 2nd β
jkarran 13/Jun/09 2nd

Awesome, seemed bold but nowhere near as silly as the name or reputation might suggest. On the 'must do' list!

with Aly
centurion05 09/May/09 Lead O/S

awesome route, overlap is committing and the top slab is bold

with Stu Harth
Hidden 05/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Alex Mason 17/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Possibly the best climb ever! amazing moves, rock and position. 5*

with Guy VG
Hidden 17/Mar/09 2nd dog
en7edh ??/2009 2nd
JulesV ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Oct/08 Lead β
Toby Dunn 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with JulesV
Hidden 22/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/08 2nd
Brown 16/May/08 2nd O/S
with Various International meet
feilx 02/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Heather & Mike Soldner
Julian Wedd ??/2008 Lead
with D. Body
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Marcus ??/2008 -
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
haydng ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Rob
chris j 08/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with Ben Bradford
Hidden ?/Jul/06 AltLd
Hidden 06/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/06 2nd O/S
bazza ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 30/May/06 Lead dnf

Nails to start, and even mnore nails at the overhang!!!

with Remus Knowles
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 22/Jan/06 Lead O/S
with Jeff McDonald
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
jeffmcd56 ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Rob
chrishedgehog 23/Apr/05 Lead O/S

Deg felt it might be approaching 6a to surmount the roof these days as the crystals deteriorate...

with Deg Bolger
KRB 03/Apr/05 Lead O/S

Brilliant route. A good test of nerve and some excellent climbing

with Chris Bridges
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 -
Adam Lincoln ??/2005 Lead
Hidden ??/2005 2nd
nicholas Barrowclough ?/Aug/04 Lead
sadams 08/Apr/04 2nd
with Eric Hildrew
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
Mark Riley ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S

Awesome route. Bolder, but easier than Pincushion ???

nige 30/Mar/03 Lead
with mark hounslea
Hidden ??/2002 -
Billg ??/2002 Lead O/S
with Megan Beaumont
Hidden ??/2002 2nd
Hidden 15/Sep/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead dnf
philhilo ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Phil T
Hidden ?/Aug/99 AltLd O/S
MjrTom ?/Jun/99 Lead O/S
mux ?/Jun/99 Lead O/S

year and date a guess

with James Hubbard
caveman_chris ?/May/99 Lead
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/97 Lead O/S
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
phardman ??/1997 -
Hidden 22/Sep/96 Lead rpt
ste_d 20/Jul/96 Lead O/S
with mik
nokishatov 20/Jul/96 AltLd O/S
sdht ?/Jun/96 2nd


WB ??/1996 AltLd O/S
with Guy
GuyM ??/1996 -
rob.grafton ?/Aug/95 Lead
with Ben
michael burrows 26/Feb/95 Lead rpt
with brian jones
richparry ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
Big Rik ??/1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
keefe ??/1995 -
mattnuttall 08/Oct/94 Lead O/S
with Pete (SCUM)
michael burrows 26/Mar/94 Lead O/S
with lola gunn
shoulders ??/1994 2nd
Hidden 03/Oct/93 Lead O/S
crossleysm ?/Jun/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/93 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 04/Apr/93 Lead
with Chris Ranner
Roget 04/Jun/92 Lead O/S
with jon
Grezza ?/May/92 2nd O/S

leaders problem!

with Mick RIP
Steve Crowe 26/Aug/91 Lead O/S
petemeads ?/Aug/91 Lead O/S

Brilliant climb. Did Pincushion first and thought it was worth going for this - it was! This was the last official hard climb I completed before retirement (as I fell of Fingerlicker immediately afterwards).

with Tristan Olivier
Andy Say 22/Jun/91 Lead
Chris Wright 30/May/91 Lead O/S
steve taylor ?/Mar/91 Lead O/S

Once again - well chuffed

with Jim Waddington
steve taylor ?/Mar/91 Lead
with stumpy
jfletcher 14/Sep/90 Lead O/S
with Glen Jones
mark-abz 08/Sep/90 Lead O/S
with Andy W
Rich Kirby 13/Jun/90 Lead O/S
with Andy Mackay
Hidden 02/Jun/90 Lead O/S
Derek Ryden ?/Jun/90 Lead O/S

Side runners in Pincushion

with Dominic
whispering nic ?/May/90 -
with Tim PYB
DDDD ??/1990 -
Seymore Butt ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
daviesxxx ??/1990 -
andy gittins ??/1990 Lead
Andy Edgar ??/1990 Lead O/S

cruised it, so happy, great line.

with Hugh Woodland
Paul Clarke ??/1990 AltLd
with FMC
Chris Wright 30/May/89 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 30/Apr/89 Lead O/S
with Kim Greenald
Hidden ??/1989 Lead O/S
RichardMc 23/Oct/88 2nd
with Paul Williams, Patrick Radford, Dave Langmead
andy tetsill ?/Oct/88 TR

top pitch only

with Hillary Sharp
Mike Owen 11/Sep/88 Lead rpt

Elaine tried to lead it.

with Elaine Owen
Hidden 10/Sep/88 AltLd
Hidden 06/Jun/88 Lead
Hidden 21/Feb/88 Lead β
Hidden ??/1988 -
Hidden ??/1988 Lead
Eduardo Martinez 03/May/87 Lead O/S
sadams 15/Apr/87 Lead O/S
with Guy Townsend
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Bullybones ??/1987 Lead
uphillnow 15/Nov/86 Lead rpt

also 5/5/91, 22/5/93

with Brian barker
Mike Owen 10/Sep/86 Lead rpt
with Gavin Peat
Alan James - UKC and UKH 19/Jul/86 Lead
with Brian Harley
ukb shark 05/Sep/85 2nd
with Seb Grieve
mark mcgowan01 ?/May/85 Lead O/S
with Graham Harrison
Steve Bell ??/1985 -
mark mcgowan01 ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1985 Solo
steveboote ??/1985 Lead
Lone Rider 05/Aug/84 AltLd
with Alan Shand
keefe 15/Apr/84 -
Bob 01/Apr/84 Lead O/S

Brilliant! The no hands pose whilst leaning across the roof is fun.

with Bill Birkett
Mark Kemball 12/Feb/84 Lead
with Alan Little
stp 18/Nov/83 Lead
duncan ?/May/83 Lead
with Paul Smith
Mike Owen 01/Apr/83 Lead rpt
with Steve Foxley
Hidden 13/Jul/82 2nd
redjerry ?/Jul/82 Lead O/S
with Bob Duncan
Steve Lewis 01/May/82 Lead rpt
with Lyndsey
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1982 TR
Hidden 23/May/81 -
Chris Craggs 06/Apr/81 AltLd
with Colin Binks
mitch1960 ??/1981 Lead
with Alan Dance
Mike Owen 21/Oct/80 Lead rpt
with Al Stewart
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
William Robertson ??/1980 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Andy Nicholson ?/Jul/79 Lead O/S
with Spike
Mike Owen 01/May/78 Lead rpt
with Steve ?
Mike Owen 27/Mar/78 Lead
with John Roberts, Keith Robertson, Brian Jones
Mike Owen 15/Oct/77 Lead O/S
with John Roberts
Hidden 14/May/77 2nd
Steve Lewis 25/Sep/76 2nd
with sharpie
Hidden ??/1973 -
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 55
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 58
Votes cast 53
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set