Rockfax Description
A brilliant line. Immaculate climbing in a sensational position with more protection than you might think, but still very airy.
1) 4b, 20m. As for Monkey Puzzle.
2) 5c, 40m. Move up the crack until a flake leads out onto the slab on the right. Make a tricky step up and right onto the arete and climb this boldly to the overlap (long sling runner and a cam 4 to help keep it in place). Pull over the roof above the chimney on invisible holds. Stalwart traditionalists will then move back onto the right arete and climb this to the top. Most people pull up into a crack and arrange gear and gain the arete slightly higher up where holds naturally lead you. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E3 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Tremadog 2018/2019, UK Holiday Plans, Definitive *** Tremadog

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
BC 18 Jul Lead O/S Quality moves in an outrageous position. Its actually well protected and proper airy in some places. Very glad to finally climb this. Best route at Tremadog?
Quality moves in an outrageous position. Its actually well protected and proper airy in some places. Very glad to finally climb this. Best route at Tremadog?
George_Surf 18 Jul AltLd rpt Ben took the pitch. Awesome moves up the arête, such great rock. Crux low down and committing through the roof? Crucial small blue dragon and sideways no4 higher up... THE line!
with BC
Ben took the pitch. Awesome moves up the arête, such great rock. Crux low down and committing through the roof? Crucial small blue dragon and sideways no4 higher up... THE line!
with BC
john lynch 11 May Lead O/S One of my favourite trad pitches to date. Unbelievably good. Turned out I did the scary "true" method by going straight right after the roof out to the arete. Very airy and serious at the grade like this. Also incredibly memorable for it. An utter joy up the arete from there.
with Tom
One of my favourite trad pitches to date. Unbelievably good. Turned out I did the scary "true" method by going straight right after the roof out to the arete. Very airy and serious at the grade like this. Also incredibly memorable for it. An utter joy up the arete from there.
with Tom
Hidden 5 May 2nd rpt
treesrockice 5 May Lead O/S Been wanting to do this for ages! Didn't disappoint! May have deviated right rather late after the overlap.
Been wanting to do this for ages! Didn't disappoint! May have deviated right rather late after the overlap.
Hidden 14 Apr Lead O/S
pftom 23 Feb AltLd O/S P1
P1
mrblack ?? -
Andy Moles 28 Sep, 2018 2nd
Hidden 28 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 15 Sep, 2018 2nd
Ram MkiV 15 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
dcussen 5 Sep, 2018 2nd
with George
with George
George Ponsonby 5 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
Struck Lucky 26 May, 2018 TR Top roped upper slab starting above the overlap. Excellent crimpy climbing.
with Fez, Garreth Stockton
Top roped upper slab starting above the overlap. Excellent crimpy climbing.
with Fez, Garreth Stockton
Hidden ?Apr, 2018 2nd
Hidden ?Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2018 -
George_Surf 27 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S High wire in the flake crack of the chimney. Climbed back down, stepped off the tree on to the arête. Really hard start, another wire and then some more hard moves to get the spike (bold). A dragon 6 stops the sling slipping off. Reach for the tiny crystals, high left foot and then rock over (hard). Wire in pincushion and then another wire about 4m above, climbed back down and traversed right back to the arête 2m above the overlap. Steady climbing to another good wire and then perfect moves up the arête (missed the small cam) 25ft run out to a rock 2 twisted in pocket and then to easy finishing cracks. First real E3, awesome route!
High wire in the flake crack of the chimney. Climbed back down, stepped off the tree on to the arête. Really hard start, another wire and then some more hard moves to get the spike (bold). A dragon 6 stops the sling slipping off. Reach for the tiny crystals, high left foot and then rock over (hard). Wire in pincushion and then another wire about 4m above, climbed back down and traversed right back to the arête 2m above the overlap. Steady climbing to another good wire and then perfect moves up the arête (missed the small cam) 25ft run out to a rock 2 twisted in pocket and then to easy finishing cracks. First real E3, awesome route!
rachelpearce01 27 Oct, 2017 2nd
eb202 13 Sep, 2017 2nd O/S P1 only
with Mike505
P1 only
with Mike505
Mike505 13 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S One of the finest pitches I've been on. I went as per the definitive description, highish nut in the chimney/flake, down climbed to the tree belay and stepped across and slightly down onto the arête. Fired straight up to the overlap, placed the sling and secured it with size 5 dragon well into the back of the break with a long extender. Took my time finding the correct crystals to use on the crux, one must be selective in such situations... once over I leaned over and placed a nut in the crack on the left 1.5m-2m above overlap (not sure if it would make the fall better or just grind the rope). Then traversed across the lip of the overlap back to the arête so I could climb it in its entirety. From here it's a steep walk on crystals and just when I was starting to think some gear would be nice it appeared. Topped out just in time for a downpour resulting in an abseil for gear, sorry Eugenie... at least you can lead it now.
with eb202
One of the finest pitches I've been on. I went as per the definitive description, highish nut in the chimney/flake, down climbed to the tree belay and stepped across and slightly down onto the arête. Fired straight up to the overlap, placed the sling and secured it with size 5 dragon well into the back of the break with a long extender. Took my time finding the correct crystals to use on the crux, one must be selective in such situations... once over I leaned over and placed a nut in the crack on the left 1.5m-2m above overlap (not sure if it would make the fall better or just grind the rope). Then traversed across the lip of the overlap back to the arête so I could climb it in its entirety. From here it's a steep walk on crystals and just when I was starting to think some gear would be nice it appeared. Topped out just in time for a downpour resulting in an abseil for gear, sorry Eugenie... at least you can lead it now.
with eb202
feilx 30 Jun, 2017 Lead dnf Wet and scared
with Callum , Gaetan L
Wet and scared
with Callum , Gaetan L
Tom Livingstone 15 Jun, 2017 2nd β
with Tess Lyons, Ben Silvestre
with Tess Lyons, Ben Silvestre
Alex Riley 25 May, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Seamus
with Seamus
Shea 25 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Led the hard pitch. Forgotten how to climb on these bizarre blocky climbs so took a while. Never thought to actually get in the crack! Took ages working out how to do the overlap, resorted to pulling with boulder power. Feet were aching by then so the slab was pretty tenuous feeling, what a climb! Had a proper adventure
with Alex Riley
Led the hard pitch. Forgotten how to climb on these bizarre blocky climbs so took a while. Never thought to actually get in the crack! Took ages working out how to do the overlap, resorted to pulling with boulder power. Feet were aching by then so the slab was pretty tenuous feeling, what a climb! Had a proper adventure
with Alex Riley
steven_daniels99 21 May, 2017 2nd
Andy Peak 1 29 Apr, 2017 Lead The Ork climbed into the cave and refused to move, he was then coaxed out with the promise of fine climbing and dancing girls waiting at the top, on getting to the top he realised that the only truth had bean the fine climbing.
The Ork climbed into the cave and refused to move, he was then coaxed out with the promise of fine climbing and dancing girls waiting at the top, on getting to the top he realised that the only truth had bean the fine climbing.
Somerset swede basher 29 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S Hard at the grade, glad Andy had the crux pitch!
Hard at the grade, glad Andy had the crux pitch!
kieranor ?Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Ha, silly indeed. Sillily (?) good route. Fucking loved the runout after the roof and it felt hilarious that the gear was so shit on the arete and you had a perfect crack running up about 2m to your left. If you keep the head though it's not so bad and the climbing is terrific. I had a great laugh to myself at a completely flared cam in a crozzly crack as my only protection for about 7m but then again I'm shit at spotting gear
Ha, silly indeed. Sillily (?) good route. Fucking loved the runout after the roof and it felt hilarious that the gear was so shit on the arete and you had a perfect crack running up about 2m to your left. If you keep the head though it's not so bad and the climbing is terrific. I had a great laugh to myself at a completely flared cam in a crozzly crack as my only protection for about 7m but then again I'm shit at spotting gear
The old James turnbull 26 Oct, 2016 2nd rpt
with aiden
with aiden
keitht 2 Oct, 2016 2nd Followed Jen in the gathering darkness.
Followed Jen in the gathering darkness.
JendeHoxar 2 Oct, 2016 AltLd
with Keith, Andy Brown
with Keith, Andy Brown
nniff 18 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S 33 years on from my last ascent! RP over the roof, then right to the arete. Bit of up and down at the roof, scuttling back underneath for a quick breather. When did one of the flakes on the upper slab get broken?
33 years on from my last ascent! RP over the roof, then right to the arete. Bit of up and down at the roof, scuttling back underneath for a quick breather. When did one of the flakes on the upper slab get broken?
DubyaJamesDubya 11 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Started at the base of the arête and also did the 'stalwart traditionalists' version as that seemed to be the route. Very good route. Very intense climb. Seemed pretty top end E3 to me.
Started at the base of the arête and also did the 'stalwart traditionalists' version as that seemed to be the route. Very good route. Very intense climb. Seemed pretty top end E3 to me.
fuzzysheep01 11 Sep, 2016 2nd O/S
Flavio 11 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Bloody brilliant, probably my favourite route at Tremadog
Bloody brilliant, probably my favourite route at Tremadog
w-watson 11 Sep, 2016 2nd dog
with Flavio
with Flavio
Christina 6 Aug, 2016 2nd dog Amazing climb, which Paul led despite the impending rain (it started properly while he was on the run-out top section). The friction had all but disappeared by the time I got to the overlap so I think there was nothing I could do but prusik over it and all the way to the top in the worsening downpour. A bit of an epic and a shame because I probably won't get a chance on it again. Not sure if this is "dogged" or "dnf" but my muscles are still screaming from the effort.
with Paul Clarkson
Amazing climb, which Paul led despite the impending rain (it started properly while he was on the run-out top section). The friction had all but disappeared by the time I got to the overlap so I think there was nothing I could do but prusik over it and all the way to the top in the worsening downpour. A bit of an epic and a shame because I probably won't get a chance on it again. Not sure if this is "dogged" or "dnf" but my muscles are still screaming from the effort.
with Paul Clarkson
No? Yes! 23 Jul, 2016 Lead Stepped off tree after placing side runner up in flake - shame to miss those moves if you follow Rockfax. Overlap crystals seemed fewer and smaller than when I last did the move in the 80's as 'easy' way onto Pincushion.) Yes, 3 star route !
with Rob Andrews
Stepped off tree after placing side runner up in flake - shame to miss those moves if you follow Rockfax. Overlap crystals seemed fewer and smaller than when I last did the move in the 80's as 'easy' way onto Pincushion.) Yes, 3 star route !
with Rob Andrews
will9911 18 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Led the proper way, step right from the tree to the arete, up the arete, over the overhand and back up the arete. The wrockfax discription misses out the hard but good start.
with Tony Madden
Led the proper way, step right from the tree to the arete, up the arete, over the overhand and back up the arete. The wrockfax discription misses out the hard but good start.
with Tony Madden
Leo Woodhead 2 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Fantastic route! The move through the overlap was committing. Once I plucked up the courage however, it was over quickly and not as bad as I'd originally thought. The upper section was bold and sharp, amazing friction. Did it as was described in the book, straight up the arete.
with Joe Hook
Fantastic route! The move through the overlap was committing. Once I plucked up the courage however, it was over quickly and not as bad as I'd originally thought. The upper section was bold and sharp, amazing friction. Did it as was described in the book, straight up the arete.
with Joe Hook
w.pettet-smith ?Jun, 2016 Lead Didn't fancy the overlap, slithered down the chimney to reorganise ropes then went over via pincushion then back to arête. Bit of a shambles! Still very enjoyable, still felt e3 to me.
with simon kimber
Didn't fancy the overlap, slithered down the chimney to reorganise ropes then went over via pincushion then back to arête. Bit of a shambles! Still very enjoyable, still felt e3 to me.
with simon kimber
littleduck 16 May, 2016 Lead dnf first pitch only
first pitch only
deacondeacon 15 May, 2016 Lead O/S Did it in a one-er. 'That move' isn't too bad once you commit. I thought the technical crux was on the bottom arête and the scary crux on the top arête ( although I only had a baggy cam in the top gear slot). Thanks to the guys on the next route who gave me some route finding tips, I though it would be fine being an arête, it wasn't lol
Did it in a one-er. 'That move' isn't too bad once you commit. I thought the technical crux was on the bottom arête and the scary crux on the top arête ( although I only had a baggy cam in the top gear slot). Thanks to the guys on the next route who gave me some route finding tips, I though it would be fine being an arête, it wasn't lol
soph 3 May, 2016 2nd rpt
with Gosia Lipinski
with Gosia Lipinski
robpartridge 24 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S Such a good a good route. Very sharp! Safe
with Helen
Such a good a good route. Very sharp! Safe
with Helen
AdamFreeman 17 Apr, 2016 2nd O/S
breed 19 Mar, 2016 2nd
Climbingspike ??, 2016 -
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Sardien 22 Nov, 2015 2nd rpt Chickened out of the lead at the last moment. Next time?!
with Andy Scott
Chickened out of the lead at the last moment. Next time?!
with Andy Scott
Hidden 20 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20 Oct, 2015 AltLd β
Hidden 17 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11 Oct, 2015 Lead dnf
mynyddresident 5 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
with KP
with KP
Hidden ?Aug, 2015 Lead
jacob shieldhouse hadley 31 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S brilliant, best E3 ever
brilliant, best E3 ever
Fragmod 23 Jul, 2015 Lead
James Oakes 23 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S
with Fragmod
with Fragmod
Rachel Slater 12 Jul, 2015 Lead β Amazing, one of the best E3s I've done. Had a little beta from Anna which made it feel quite chill!
with Anna Gilyeat
Amazing, one of the best E3s I've done. Had a little beta from Anna which made it feel quite chill!
with Anna Gilyeat
hamer89 ?Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Felt pretty dangerous this route i remember
Felt pretty dangerous this route i remember
Hidden 26 May, 2015 2nd
Adam Booth 26 May, 2015 Lead rpt
Hidden 24 May, 2015 TR dog
Hidden 24 May, 2015 Lead
Hidden 26 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 26 Apr, 2015 AltLd My god amazzin
with Si
My god amazzin
with Si
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 19 Apr, 2015 -
Hidden 18 Apr, 2015 2nd
tom.e 7 Feb, 2015 2nd O/S
with Dan
with Dan
dobby 200 17 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S I lead P2. What an amazing climb! Just as I got to the roof 2 owls flew out of the big crack which was a massive shock! They are nesting in the back of the crack. It took me a while to commit to the moves through the roof but once I was on the upper Slab it was fun and technical airy climbing.
I lead P2. What an amazing climb! Just as I got to the roof 2 owls flew out of the big crack which was a massive shock! They are nesting in the back of the crack. It took me a while to commit to the moves through the roof but once I was on the upper Slab it was fun and technical airy climbing.
joedoherty 17 Jan, 2015 AltLd dog
Tim Sparrow ??, 2015 -
Hidden ??, 2015 -
phil64 ??, 2015 -
Hidden ??, 2015 -
Jacob Phillips ??, 2015 Lead
Scooter Young ??, 2015 Lead
Hidden 28 Dec, 2014 2nd
Dave Turnbull, BMC 28 Dec, 2014 Lead rpt
with Kasia
with Kasia
Hidden 3 Dec, 2014 Lead O/S
Ally Smith 27 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with Gareth
with Gareth
Dan Arkle 20 Sep, 2014 2nd
with soph
with soph
soph 20 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
duncandarnell 1 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Crux overlap felt pretty straightforward, placed a couple of runners in pincussion crack afterwards wanted nothing to do with any nutty run outs. Joined the arete bout half height so still felt pretty bold tho
with neil philips
Crux overlap felt pretty straightforward, placed a couple of runners in pincussion crack afterwards wanted nothing to do with any nutty run outs. Joined the arete bout half height so still felt pretty bold tho
with neil philips
Ed morris 12 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Almost blown away by 20mph winds!
with stefan
Almost blown away by 20mph winds!
with stefan
bwestwood 7 May, 2014 2nd
pie_eater_pete 6 May, 2014 AltLd
Andrew Wilson 5 May, 2014 AltLd dnf
with Matt Nuttall
with Matt Nuttall
Andrew Sloan 30 Mar, 2014 2nd dog Ended up 'frigging' the crux on a very tight rope.....definitely harder than 5c. The rest of the route was like an Ailefroide 6a+ slab without the bolts!
with Tony Ball
Ended up 'frigging' the crux on a very tight rope.....definitely harder than 5c. The rest of the route was like an Ailefroide 6a+ slab without the bolts!
with Tony Ball
Hidden 30 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
Dan Vaj 28 Mar, 2014 2nd O/S
with James McHaffie
with James McHaffie
Dan Hale 26 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S Took ages to commit to the blind moves through the overlap!
with BenRyle
Took ages to commit to the blind moves through the overlap!
with BenRyle
BenRyle 26 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S Nice lead by Dan, committing moves to overcome overlap. Ace route
Nice lead by Dan, committing moves to overcome overlap. Ace route
Dan-Cheetham ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??, 2014 AltLd
with Al George
with Al George
rustaldo 24 Nov, 2013 Lead O/S Awesome! The roof is very blind and feels very committing, took awhile to psyche up for it. Definitely one to repeat, one of the best lines in N Wales for me.
Awesome! The roof is very blind and feels very committing, took awhile to psyche up for it. Definitely one to repeat, one of the best lines in N Wales for me.
Alex Hallam 24 Nov, 2013 2nd dnf
spidermonkey09 11 Nov, 2013 Lead O/S Amazing pitch. Hands down the best route I've ever climbed. Fundamentally safe but would be a huge whipper if you went from the top slab. First E3.
with TRFrost
Amazing pitch. Hands down the best route I've ever climbed. Fundamentally safe but would be a huge whipper if you went from the top slab. First E3.
with TRFrost
TRFrost 10 Nov, 2013 2nd O/S
with J. Hulbert
with J. Hulbert
Hidden 12 Oct, 2013 2nd dog
masa-alpin 12 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S Done in 2 pitches. Used a side runner at the initial section of P2 as instructed (in the Ground Up guide). Exciting, sustained both physically and mentally, and fantastic route! Skyhook recommended!
with Lukeva
Done in 2 pitches. Used a side runner at the initial section of P2 as instructed (in the Ground Up guide). Exciting, sustained both physically and mentally, and fantastic route! Skyhook recommended!
with Lukeva
The Grist 31 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Dibdawg 19 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
with Simon Lake (PYB)
with Simon Lake (PYB)
Dale ?Jun, 2013 Lead dnf Upset about this. did all the moves fine up to the overhang. Had a few looks trying to find the best crystals to use. When I eventually commited to the move my foot was just on the foot hold on the lip about to weight it and I found my self air born. I accidently grabbed the rope resulting in very bad rope burnt fingers as it was quite a long fall. Had another go, lost my moe joe and fell again flipped upside down in the chimney. We Then abbed off. One to come back for
with johny
Upset about this. did all the moves fine up to the overhang. Had a few looks trying to find the best crystals to use. When I eventually commited to the move my foot was just on the foot hold on the lip about to weight it and I found my self air born. I accidently grabbed the rope resulting in very bad rope burnt fingers as it was quite a long fall. Had another go, lost my moe joe and fell again flipped upside down in the chimney. We Then abbed off. One to come back for
with johny
shed_hed 19 May, 2013 2nd O/S Very nice.
Very nice.
dswansonlow 19 May, 2013 Lead O/S
wolf.leeb 6 May, 2013 Lead O/S Really, really good.
with jo
Really, really good.
with jo
tim newton 1 May, 2013 Lead O/S Harder and scarier than I expected
Harder and scarier than I expected
Alex Mason 6 Feb, 2013 2nd β Chilly in fading light. Such a superb route!
with Gwen Lancashire
Chilly in fading light. Such a superb route!
with Gwen Lancashire
Sardien 12 Jan, 2013 2nd β Soooooooooooooooooooooo good!!!!! It will take me a while to get over how good that was
with Andy Scott
Soooooooooooooooooooooo good!!!!! It will take me a while to get over how good that was
with Andy Scott
Nick Biven ??, 2013 -
captain ??, 2013 -
ad111 11 Nov, 2012 Lead O/S
Michael Allday 11 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
Bruce Houston ?Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
ben1987 12 May, 2012 AltLd dog Hard roof crux.
Hard roof crux.
Adam Coles 12 May, 2012 AltLd
with ben1987
with ben1987
james.slater 12 May, 2012 Lead O/S YES! What a route, bloody hard though, and runout! Glad ive finally done it! Fairly consistent 5c moves and very bold!
YES! What a route, bloody hard though, and runout! Glad ive finally done it! Fairly consistent 5c moves and very bold!
Hidden 6 May, 2012 Lead O/S
mike mo 6 May, 2012 2nd rpt
Owain Llewelyn 2 May, 2012 Lead O/S
with Dan
with Dan
dan ely 2 May, 2012 2nd O/S
with owian
with owian
markalmack 18 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S Fucking cool!
with andy lole
Fucking cool!
with andy lole
Hidden 18 Mar, 2012 2nd
Dan Arkle ??, 2012 Lead
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Adam Coles ??, 2012 Lead O/S
Stone Idle ??, 2012 -
pete johnson 20 Nov, 2011 2nd
with Chris Parkin, geoff b
with Chris Parkin, geoff b
geoff b 20 Nov, 2011 Lead
flatland_warrior 2 Sep, 2011 2nd dog
SteveJCox 2 Sep, 2011 2nd
Tom Cox 2 Sep, 2011 2nd β
MD 14 Aug, 2011 2nd dog
with Misha
with Misha
Misha 14 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
with MD
with MD
chris sm 6 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S Cheated at the bottom as i did not hop onto the arete in from the start. Also cheated at the top 'cause Jon went the wrong way - this was accidental.
Cheated at the bottom as i did not hop onto the arete in from the start. Also cheated at the top 'cause Jon went the wrong way - this was accidental.
givemetea 6 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
dan gibson 6 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with roslyn mckendry
with roslyn mckendry
willoates 21 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S Saw it in the guide and it looked amazing, then after the recommendation from Dave I had to get on it. Amazing route, although the wind was a real issue and I found pulling over the roof quite hard for 5c.
with Hayley Proctor, Dan Johnson
Saw it in the guide and it looked amazing, then after the recommendation from Dave I had to get on it. Amazing route, although the wind was a real issue and I found pulling over the roof quite hard for 5c.
with Hayley Proctor, Dan Johnson
Hidden 21 Jun, 2011 2nd
Liam FLeming 20 Jun, 2011 Lead
with simon edwards
with simon edwards
david morse 19 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S Wanted to do this for ages, an immaculate route. One of the great lines of Tremadog
with katie
Wanted to do this for ages, an immaculate route. One of the great lines of Tremadog
with katie
feilx 19 Jun, 2011 Lead rpt
jacobjlloyd 19 Jun, 2011 2nd rpt Silly arete!!!! I was so keen to not fall off of this that I didn't even commit to the roof moves. Figured it out, decided my foot wouldnt work so high, faffed for an hour or so, and lowered off without committing. A low point. Not something i want to make a habit of. Felix made it look so trivial that on second I breezed through it. Its amazing what difference a little fear and uncertainty can make to one's flexibility. Still, a fantastic climb, and one that demands plenty of raw skill as well as bravado. A lesson learned - when in doubt, might as well give it a go. It could turn out to be totally fine!
with feilx
Silly arete!!!! I was so keen to not fall off of this that I didn't even commit to the roof moves. Figured it out, decided my foot wouldnt work so high, faffed for an hour or so, and lowered off without committing. A low point. Not something i want to make a habit of. Felix made it look so trivial that on second I breezed through it. Its amazing what difference a little fear and uncertainty can make to one's flexibility. Still, a fantastic climb, and one that demands plenty of raw skill as well as bravado. A lesson learned - when in doubt, might as well give it a go. It could turn out to be totally fine!
with feilx
adam06 5 Jun, 2011 2nd
with spidey
with spidey
spidey 5 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
with adam
with adam
Hidden 4 Jun, 2011 2nd O/S
belay bunny turned bad 4 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
with loundsy
with loundsy
Andrew Barker 4 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S Incredible. Bold in places but not as intimidating as I thought it might be. Felt a bit weird stepping down off the tree onto the start of the arete. The roof was entertaining and the top arete was just really enjoyable.
Incredible. Bold in places but not as intimidating as I thought it might be. Felt a bit weird stepping down off the tree onto the start of the arete. The roof was entertaining and the top arete was just really enjoyable.
ian d f 22 Apr, 2011 AltLd dnf The gear free retreat at the roof was too tempting, those holds are small!
The gear free retreat at the roof was too tempting, those holds are small!
Adam Booth 26 Mar, 2011 2nd O/S
Ed Booth 26 Mar, 2011 Lead Lowered off from roof back in 06. Well good route.
Lowered off from roof back in 06. Well good route.
Luke Brooks 8 Mar, 2011 2nd
with Glyn Hudson
with Glyn Hudson
Glyn 8 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S In high winds and with numb fingers and toes. quite an experience for someone who doesn't do bold climbing!
In high winds and with numb fingers and toes. quite an experience for someone who doesn't do bold climbing!
mr mills 6 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S wop wop, about time, been on my list forever, I guess I must have gone up and down the overhang half a dozen times before committing, well worth the wait, conditions were perfect :)
with Gareth
wop wop, about time, been on my list forever, I guess I must have gone up and down the overhang half a dozen times before committing, well worth the wait, conditions were perfect :)
with Gareth
halfmanhalfbiscuit ?Mar, 2011 Lead After retreating from below the roof in 2008. Excellent but, say it quietly, the top wall is an eliminate.
After retreating from below the roof in 2008. Excellent but, say it quietly, the top wall is an eliminate.
zero six ?Mar, 2011 Lead clean, after lowering from below crux a couple of years prior.
clean, after lowering from below crux a couple of years prior.
pasbury ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
GeoffG ??, 2011 -
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
Jack Geldard ??, 2011 -
Marcus ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Dave Parton ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
farmus21 21 Nov, 2010 Lead O/S The move over the overhang is fine once you rock over and commit. Its just building up to doing it that takes the effort. Top section was bolder and more sustained than I expected. Truly excellent climbing, great line.
with Ben Allsford
The move over the overhang is fine once you rock over and commit. Its just building up to doing it that takes the effort. Top section was bolder and more sustained than I expected. Truly excellent climbing, great line.
with Ben Allsford
phil64 16 Aug, 2010 Lead 25 years since last lead..... alzheimers onsight!
25 years since last lead..... alzheimers onsight!
3 Names 18 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 14 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S P2
with Harry
P2
with Harry
eugeneth 3 Jun, 2010 AltLd RP Lead pitch 1 of the Quakermen (5a) to the tree belay. Rich lead the crux. Nails move through the overhang!!
Lead pitch 1 of the Quakermen (5a) to the tree belay. Rich lead the crux. Nails move through the overhang!!
smallerrich 3 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S In vertical order, starting from the tree: Gripping as f**k, really f**king hard, then amazing to the top. Its like a V4 problem getting through the overhang in the sweaty sweaty heat, those holds are tiny!! Are you meant to step straight onto the arete?
with Eugene
In vertical order, starting from the tree: Gripping as f**k, really f**king hard, then amazing to the top. Its like a V4 problem getting through the overhang in the sweaty sweaty heat, those holds are tiny!! Are you meant to step straight onto the arete?
with Eugene
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 1 May, 2010 Lead O/S
with ChrisC
with ChrisC
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 19 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
barni 16 Apr, 2010 Lead
Luke Brooks 16 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with barni
with barni
hervenuttall ?Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with matt b
with matt b
Hidden ??, 2010 -
simeclimb68 ??, 2010 -
richiebongo ??, 2010 Lead O/S
with Gwen Thomson
with Gwen Thomson
Mike Goldthorp 11 Nov, 2009 Lead O/S Top notch route. Jim Jewell... legend, I wana solo it too!
Top notch route. Jim Jewell... legend, I wana solo it too!
Hidden 12 Oct, 2009 2nd
Marti999 12 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S
mattyork2 10 Oct, 2009 Lead 3 1/4 hour epic. Scared over the roof and retreated left into pincushion crack.
with James Gray and Pete Ellis
3 1/4 hour epic. Scared over the roof and retreated left into pincushion crack.
with James Gray and Pete Ellis
Hidden 6 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
mikeyjbs ?Aug, 2009 Lead RP
with will woodhead
with will woodhead
tom rookes 30 Jul, 2009 2nd
NeilGriffiths 25 Jul, 2009 - Dead good
with Dave Almond
Dead good
with Dave Almond
Dave Almond 25 Jul, 2009 2nd
Hidden 20 Jul, 2009 2nd β
jkarran 13 Jun, 2009 2nd Awesome, seemed bold but nowhere near as silly as the name or reputation might suggest. On the 'must do' list!
with Aly
Awesome, seemed bold but nowhere near as silly as the name or reputation might suggest. On the 'must do' list!
with Aly
centurion05 9 May, 2009 Lead O/S awesome route, overlap is committing and the top slab is bold
with Stu Harth
awesome route, overlap is committing and the top slab is bold
with Stu Harth
Hidden 5 Apr, 2009 AltLd O/S
Alex Mason 17 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S Possibly the best climb ever! amazing moves, rock and position. 5*
with Guy VG
Possibly the best climb ever! amazing moves, rock and position. 5*
with Guy VG
Hidden 17 Mar, 2009 2nd dog
JulesV ??, 2009 Lead O/S
en7edh ??, 2009 2nd
Hidden 13 Oct, 2008 Lead β
Toby Dunn 26 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
with JulesV
with JulesV
Hidden 22 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 2008 2nd
Brown 16 May, 2008 2nd O/S
with Various International meet
with Various International meet
feilx 2 Mar, 2008 Lead O/S
with Heather & Mike Soldner
with Heather & Mike Soldner
Marcus ??, 2008 -
Matt Vigg ??, 2008 -
Julian Wedd ??, 2008 Lead
with D. Body
with D. Body
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
haydng ??, 2007 Lead O/S
with Rob
with Rob
chris j 8 Jul, 2006 2nd O/S
with Ben Bradford
with Ben Bradford
Hidden ?Jul, 2006 AltLd
Hidden 6 Jun, 2006 2nd O/S
Hidden 6 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
bazza ?Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 30 May, 2006 Lead dnf Nails to start, and even mnore nails at the overhang!!!
with Remus Knowles
Nails to start, and even mnore nails at the overhang!!!
with Remus Knowles
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 22 Jan, 2006 Lead O/S
with Jeff McDonald
with Jeff McDonald
Hidden ??, 2006 -
jeffmcd56 ??, 2006 Lead O/S
with Rob
with Rob
chrishedgehog 23 Apr, 2005 Lead O/S Deg felt it might be approaching 6a to surmount the roof these days as the crystals deteriorate...
with Deg Bolger
Deg felt it might be approaching 6a to surmount the roof these days as the crystals deteriorate...
with Deg Bolger
KRB 3 Apr, 2005 Lead O/S Brilliant route. A good test of nerve and some excellent climbing
with Chris Bridges
Brilliant route. A good test of nerve and some excellent climbing
with Chris Bridges
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 -
Hidden ??, 2005 -
Hidden ??, 2005 Lead
Hidden ??, 2005 2nd
nicholas Barrowclough ?Aug, 2004 Lead
Hidden ?Aug, 2004 Lead β
sadams 8 Apr, 2004 2nd
with Eric Hildrew
with Eric Hildrew
Brian Rodgers ??, 2004 Lead O/S Needed a bit of faith for the roof. The rest was most enjoyable. One of the best routes ever.
Needed a bit of faith for the roof. The rest was most enjoyable. One of the best routes ever.
Hidden ?Oct, 2003 2nd
Mark Riley ?Apr, 2003 Lead O/S Awesome route. Bolder, but easier than Pincushion ???
Awesome route. Bolder, but easier than Pincushion ???
nige 30 Mar, 2003 Lead
with mark hounslea
with mark hounslea
Hidden ??, 2002 2nd
Hidden ??, 2002 -
Billg ??, 2002 Lead O/S
with Megan Beaumont
with Megan Beaumont
Hidden 15 Sep, 2001 Lead O/S
philhilo ??, 2000 -
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead dnf
Tim M ??, 2000 Lead O/S
with Phil T
with Phil T
Hidden ?Aug, 1999 AltLd O/S
mux ?Jun, 1999 Lead O/S year and date a guess
with James Hubbard
year and date a guess
with James Hubbard
MjrTom ?Jun, 1999 Lead O/S
caveman_chris ?May, 1999 Lead
accynez ??, 1999 Lead
pauldrew ??, 1999 2nd
with Dave Barlow
with Dave Barlow
Mark Lloyd ??, 1999 Lead O/S
steepstuff ?Jun, 1998 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1998 Lead
Hidden ?Jul, 1997 Lead O/S
phardman ??, 1997 -
Ched ??, 1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
with Glanfor
Davros the Psyched ??, 1997 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Sep, 1996 Lead rpt
ste_d 20 Jul, 1996 Lead O/S
Mike_d78 20 Jul, 1996 AltLd O/S
with ste_d
with ste_d
sdht ?Jun, 1996 2nd Hard
Hard
WB ??, 1996 AltLd O/S
with GuyM
with GuyM
GuyM ??, 1996 -
rob.grafton ?Aug, 1995 Lead
with Ben
with Ben
michael burrows 26 Feb, 1995 Lead rpt
with brian jones
with brian jones
Hidden ??, 1995 Lead
richparry ??, 1995 -
keefe ??, 1995 -
hugo glover ??, 1995 Lead
Rik Payne ??, 1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??, 1995 -
with keefe
with keefe
mattnuttall 8 Oct, 1994 Lead O/S
with Pete (SCUM)
with Pete (SCUM)
pete johnson 19 Jun, 1994 2nd
with Steve Findlay
with Steve Findlay
michael burrows 26 Mar, 1994 Lead O/S
with lola gunn
with lola gunn
shoulders ??, 1994 2nd
Neil McA 27 Nov, 1993 2nd rpt
with Paul Jenkinson
with Paul Jenkinson
Hidden 3 Oct, 1993 Lead O/S
tmawer 28 Jul, 1993 2nd rpt
with Andy
with Andy
crossleysm ?Jun, 1993 Lead O/S
steveb2006 3 May, 1993 Lead A bit gripped for this and nearly set off with my harness not properly done up. Initial arete is hard. On teh crux, eventually commit myself to the fingery pull over the roof. Rest is no push over
with Simon Mee
A bit gripped for this and nearly set off with my harness not properly done up. Initial arete is hard. On teh crux, eventually commit myself to the fingery pull over the roof. Rest is no push over
with Simon Mee
Dave Musgrove Jnr 4 Apr, 1993 Lead
with Chris Ranner
with Chris Ranner
D Tempest 3 Apr, 1993 AltLd
with Michelle
with Michelle
Roget 4 Jun, 1992 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
Grezza ?May, 1992 2nd O/S leaders problem!
with Mick RIP
leaders problem!
with Mick RIP
Steve Crowe 26 Aug, 1991 Lead O/S
nuts and bolts ?Aug, 1991 -
petemeads ?Aug, 1991 Lead O/S Brilliant climb. Did Pincushion first and thought it was worth going for this - it was! This was the last official hard climb I completed before retirement (as I fell of Fingerlicker immediately afterwards).
with Tristan Olivier
Brilliant climb. Did Pincushion first and thought it was worth going for this - it was! This was the last official hard climb I completed before retirement (as I fell of Fingerlicker immediately afterwards).
with Tristan Olivier
Andy Say 22 Jun, 1991 Lead
Chris Wright 30 May, 1991 Lead O/S
steve taylor ?Mar, 1991 Lead O/S Once again - well chuffed
with Jim Waddington
Once again - well chuffed
with Jim Waddington
steve taylor ?Mar, 1991 Lead
with stumpy
with stumpy
jfletcher 14 Sep, 1990 Lead O/S
with Glen Jones
with Glen Jones
mark-abz 8 Sep, 1990 Lead O/S
with Andy W
with Andy W
Rich Kirby 13 Jun, 1990 Lead O/S
with Andy Mackay
with Andy Mackay
Hidden 2 Jun, 1990 Lead O/S
Greg Cunningham 1 Jun, 1990 -
Derek Ryden ?Jun, 1990 Lead O/S Side runners in Pincushion
with Dominic
Side runners in Pincushion
with Dominic
Campbell42 6 May, 1990 2nd O/S
with Chris Wilson
with Chris Wilson
Hidden 6 May, 1990 Lead
whispering nic ?May, 1990 -
with Tim PYB
with Tim PYB
Brian Wilderspin 17 Apr, 1990 AltLd O/S
with Perric Crellin
with Perric Crellin
daviesxxx ??, 1990 -
andy gittins ??, 1990 Lead
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
Seymore Butt ??, 1990 Lead
with Spuz
with Spuz
Andy Edgar ??, 1990 Lead O/S cruised it, so happy, great line.
with Hugh Woodland
cruised it, so happy, great line.
with Hugh Woodland
Hidden ??, 1990 -
DDDD ??, 1990 -
Hidden ??, 1990 AltLd
Hidden 22 Jul, 1989 2nd O/S
Chris Wright 30 May, 1989 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 30 Apr, 1989 Lead O/S
with Kim Greenald
with Kim Greenald
Hidden ??, 1989 Lead O/S
RichardMc 23 Oct, 1988 2nd
with Paul Williams, Patrick Radford, Dave Langmead
with Paul Williams, Patrick Radford, Dave Langmead
andy tetsill ?Oct, 1988 TR top pitch only
with Hillary Sharp
top pitch only
with Hillary Sharp
Mike Owen 11 Sep, 1988 Lead rpt Elaine tried to lead it.
with Elaine Owen
Elaine tried to lead it.
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 10 Sep, 1988 AltLd
Hidden 6 Aug, 1988 Lead
Hidden 6 Jun, 1988 Lead
Hidden 21 Feb, 1988 Lead β
Graham Carter ??, 1988 Lead
with JSMTC Staff
with JSMTC Staff
Hidden ??, 1988 Lead
Hidden ??, 1988 -
Eduardo Martinez 3 May, 1987 Lead O/S
sadams 15 Apr, 1987 Lead O/S
with Guy Townsend
with Guy Townsend
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 1987 Lead
uphillnow 15 Nov, 1986 Lead rpt also 5/5/91, 22/5/93
with Brian barker
also 5/5/91, 22/5/93
with Brian barker
David Slater 2 Nov, 1986 Lead
with Leicester Uni MC, Phil J
with Leicester Uni MC, Phil J
Mike Owen 10 Sep, 1986 Lead rpt
with Gavin Peat
with Gavin Peat
Hidden 6 Sep, 1986 Lead
Neil McA 8 Aug, 1986 Lead rpt
with Jim Dockery
with Jim Dockery
Alan James - UKC and UKH 19 Jul, 1986 Lead
with Brian Harley
with Brian Harley
UKB Shark 5 Sep, 1985 2nd
with Dave Clarke
with Dave Clarke
D Tempest ?Aug, 1985 Lead O/S
mark mcgowan01 ?May, 1985 Lead O/S
with Graham Harrison
with Graham Harrison
Rob Seymour 10 Apr, 1985 Lead O/S
with Stu Mackay
with Stu Mackay
mark mcgowan01 ??, 1985 -
Steve Bell ??, 1985 -
steveboote ??, 1985 Lead
Melok ??, 1985 Solo Led 5/6 times , no pardner one day, and soloed it, cool.
Led 5/6 times , no pardner one day, and soloed it, cool.
Lone Rider 5 Aug, 1984 AltLd
with Alan Shand
with Alan Shand
Rick51 23 Apr, 1984 Lead
keefe 15 Apr, 1984 -
Bob 1 Apr, 1984 Lead O/S Brilliant! The no hands pose whilst leaning across the roof is fun.
with Bill Birkett
Brilliant! The no hands pose whilst leaning across the roof is fun.
with Bill Birkett
Mark Kemball 12 Feb, 1984 Lead
with Alan Little
with Alan Little
stp 18 Nov, 1983 Lead
duncan ?May, 1983 Lead O/S
with Paul Smith
with Paul Smith
Mike Owen 1 Apr, 1983 Lead rpt
with Steve Foxley
with Steve Foxley
Neil McA 5 Mar, 1983 2nd
with John Gillet, Jim Thomas
with John Gillet, Jim Thomas
Hidden 13 Jul, 1982 2nd
redjerry ?Jul, 1982 Lead O/S
with Bob Duncan
with Bob Duncan
Steve Lewis 1 May, 1982 Lead rpt
with Lyndsey
with Lyndsey
GeoffG 12 Apr, 1982 -
cenotaphcorner 10 Apr, 1982 2nd O/S
with Paul Ingham
with Paul Ingham
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??, 1982 TR
Hidden 23 May, 1981 -
Hidden 6 Apr, 1981 AltLd
mitch1960 ??, 1981 Lead
with Alan Dance
with Alan Dance
clanger ??, 1981 Lead
Mike Owen 21 Oct, 1980 Lead rpt
with Al Stewart
with Al Stewart
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Marcus ??, 1980 -
William Robertson ??, 1980 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Andy Nicholson ?Jul, 1979 Lead O/S
with Spike
with Spike
Mike Owen 1 May, 1978 Lead rpt
with Steve ?
with Steve ?
Mike Owen 27 Mar, 1978 Lead rpt
with John Roberts, Keith Robertson, Brian Jones
with John Roberts, Keith Robertson, Brian Jones
Mike Owen 15 Oct, 1977 Lead O/S
with John Roberts
with John Roberts
Hidden 14 May, 1977 2nd
Hidden 17 Oct, 1976 AltLd
Steve Lewis 25 Sep, 1976 2nd
with sharpie
with sharpie
Hidden ??, 1973 -
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 59
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 62
Votes cast 57
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set