Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 15m a.s.l
The limestone tower situated in Red Wharf Bay, Anglesey offers great bouldering on solid rock. It has the benefit of remaining dry (most) of the time when other venues are effected by seepage.
All climbs are described from left-to-right. For identification purposes, the best location point is the obvious book corner of Black Smoke Rising.
The link-ups start from established problems and are self explanatory once familiar with the area.
Park in the car park near 'The Boathouse' cafe. Walk leftwards across the beach by the wall towards the limestone tower. Where the wall of the beachfront house turns left, follow it up into the wood over a short rise until a vague path breaks off the main track rightwards through the trees to the open book corner of Black Smoke Rising.
Nesting birds on the top so no routes are permitted. Bouldering is OK according to the land owner.