Altitude 187m a.s.l
Temporary Approach to Castle Inn Quarry © Mark Reeves
Castle Inn Quarry is tucked away just inland from the coast and provides a very popular line-up of low to mid grade sport climbs that are clean, well-bolted, easily accessed and have a lovely outlook. The quarry has a number of small walls and buttresses - the showpiece being the Main Face that rises straight out of the parking below the crag. The climbing on the Main Face is excellent. Whilst the other walls are not as impressive, they are still worthwhile being on generally good rock and well-equipped.
The crag faces generally south, although sun and shade can be found at most times of the day. The rock dries extremely quickly and there is virtually no seepage, however there is no possibility of climbing when it is actually raining.
If coming from the east, leave the A55 at junction 23 (signed 'Llanddulas') and turn immediately right at the roundabout and then immediately left onto the A547 (signed 'Old Colwyn'). Continue uphill for 1.4 miles and turn left onto Highlands Road. Drive up the hill for 0.5 miles and turn right onto Tan y Craig Road, drive a further 0.4 miles and the car park and crag are on the left.
If coming from the west, leave the A55 at junction 22 (signed 'Old Colwyn'). Drive into the town and turn left at the first roundabout onto the A547. Follow this for 1.2 miles through the town and uphill until just over the brow of the hill. Turn right onto Highlands Road. Drive up the hill for 0.5 miles and turn right onto Tan y Craig Road, drive a further 0.4 miles and the car park and crag are on the left.
May 2020. Conwy Council have informed us that the car park below the cliff is currently closed and all of the front/main face is closed for climbing and is cordoned off due to unstable rocks/rockfall issues. The rockfall issues extend beyond the obvious loose stuff in the gully/groove on the left. A geo technical survey also identified potentially unstable material above the main face itself. The closed area is marked by red posts. Some climbers have been moving these posts and the barriers- please do not do this, as this risks future access.
The car park is currently closed, so please use the main Mynydd Marian car park, some 5 mins walk away. Directions below. Do not park on the appraoch road.
The owners (Conwy Council) have in general no problems with climbers using this site, however developments to the west of the main cliff have involved gardening and rock removal on a site known to be important for a nationally rare butterfly, the Silver Studded Blue. Climbers are asked to minimise gardening and vegetation clearance at this location, which is an SSSI, and avoid damaging the grassland below the rock face. There have also been concerns that trees and other scrubby growth have been cut on the east side of the cliff. It is important that no tree or vegetation clearance takes place without prior approval from the site warden, contactable via the BMC.
The right hand side of the car park has been sold to a private owner, and climbers should not enter the fenced area or land belonging to the old Castle Inn. However the cliff face is still owned by the council and climbing is allowed.
Climbers need to be aware that the cliffs are very close to and overlook residential areas and any undue noise or unsociabe activity will cause anatgonism and possible access issues. This is particularly true for larger and organsised groups - this is not a a school playground, so instructors and leaders, please manage your groups accordingly!
At busy times parking can be a problem and complaints have been recieved abourt climbers blocking the lane below the crag - consider going to other sites if this is the case. It's strongly recomended that groups in minbuses or larger vehicles do not park below the crag but instead use the Mynydd Marian Nature Reserve Car park - and approach the crag by a short 5min walk across the meadow above the crag. Map ref for car park SH893772.
Updated by UKC: 9th September
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