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Climbs 69
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 187m a.s.l
Faces S

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Temporary Approach to Castle Inn Quarry © Mark Reeves

Crag features

Castle Inn Quarry is tucked away just inland from the coast and provides a very popular line-up of low to mid grade sport climbs that are clean, well-bolted, easily accessed and have a lovely outlook. The quarry has a number of small walls and buttresses - the showpiece being the Main Face that rises straight out of the parking below the crag. The climbing on the Main Face is excellent. Whilst the other walls are not as impressive, they are still worthwhile being on generally good rock and well-equipped.

The crag faces generally south, although sun and shade can be found at most times of the day. The rock dries extremely quickly and there is virtually no seepage, however there is no possibility of climbing when it is actually raining.

Approach notes

If coming from the east, leave the A55 at junction 23 (signed 'Llanddulas') and turn immediately right at the roundabout and then immediately left onto the A547 (signed 'Old Colwyn'). Continue uphill for 1.4 miles and turn left onto Highlands Road. Drive up the hill for 0.5 miles and turn right onto Tan y Craig Road, drive a further 0.4 miles and the car park and crag are on the left.

If coming from the west, leave the A55 at junction 22 (signed 'Old Colwyn'). Drive into the town and turn left at the first roundabout onto the A547. Follow this for 1.2 miles through the town and uphill until just over the brow of the hill. Turn right onto Highlands Road. Drive up the hill for 0.5 miles and turn right onto Tan y Craig Road, drive a further 0.4 miles and the car park and crag are on the left.

Access Advice

November 18th 2020. Conwy Council have informed us that the car park below the cliff has now reopened and the barriers removed. The rockfall issues have also been resolved and the main face is again open and available for climbing.  

 If the car park is closed,  or busy, please use the main Mynydd Marian car park, some 5 mins walk away. Directions below.  Do not park on the approach road. 

The owners (Conwy Council) have in general no problems with climbers using this site, however developments to the west of the main cliff have involved gardening and rock removal on a site known to be important for a nationally rare butterfly, the Silver Studded Blue. Climbers are asked to minimise gardening and vegetation clearance at this location, which is an SSSI, and avoid damaging the grassland below the rock face. There have also been concerns that trees and other scrubby growth have been cut on the east side of the cliff. It is important that no tree or vegetation clearance takes place without prior approval from the site warden, contactable via the BMC.

The right hand side of the car park has been sold to a private owner, and climbers should not enter the fenced area or land belonging to the old Castle Inn.  However the cliff face is still owned by the council and climbing is allowed.

Climbers need to be aware that the cliffs are very close to and overlook residential areas and any undue noise or unsociable activity will cause anatgonism and possible access issues. This is particularly true for larger and organsised groups - this is not a a school playground, so instructors and leaders, please manage your groups accordingly! 

At busy times parking can be a problem and complaints have been recieved abourt climbers blocking the lane below the crag - consider going to other sites if this is the case.  It's strongly recomended that groups in minbuses or larger vehicles do not park below the crag but instead use the Mynydd Marian Nature Reserve Car park - and approach the crag by a short 5min walk across the meadow above the crag.  Map ref for car park SH893772.

 

https://www.conwy.gov.uk/en/Resident/Leisure-sport-and-health/Coast-and-Countryside/Assets/documents/Mynydd-Marian-leaflet.pdf

 

Updated by UKC: 19th November

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
A55 Sport Climbs (2019)
North Wales Limestone (2014)

Out of print:
Used to love this crag, climbed here as an Autumn through spring venue for more years than I care to remember. However its popularity has resulted in a high degree of polish on most routes which has made them less attractive and more insecure.
Angry old man - 17/Oct/19
The second bolt on Mogadishu is still loose...it appears it has been for 4 years though!
SebCa - 02/May/19
One of the bolts on Ffrind is loose
kate8 - 02/Sep/18
Was there a few weeks ago and there are a couple of loose holds on Taid a move or two below the lower off. A couple have chalk crosses on but they might have washed off by now.
Hey Pesto - 01/Sep/16
The second bolt of Mogadishu is loose.
charlieg0pzo - 24/Sep/15
Went there yesterday, no rubbish to be seen and all of the routes/lower off's were in tact. Brilliant place to climb.
ChristineLouise89 - 21/Aug/13
3 new easy routes up and left of Fine View Wall, however the far left route shoud not be climbed due to the lower off resin not setting/still wet. Be careful.
Zoomer - 12/Jul/12
Was there today, 1st bolt of Zimba missing and on the Taid Wall lots of climbers rubbish i.e. chalk wrappers/rope cards etc. Its not the cleanest place but lets at least make the effort as climbers to clean up after ourselves!
Zoomer - 12/Mar/12
Was climbing here on saturday and the lowest bolt on the most left route on the lost world sector fell out, no weight was placed on it, i think the belayer stepped back and put a small amount of pressure on it. Bit worrying!!
tomjagger - 12/Mar/12
Don't rely on what "chers" says! The approach given is completely accurate and from the "A55 Sport Climbs" guidebook. Also all routes have lower-offs and are very much "still there"! In addition there has been much development in 2011 of a number of small slabby walls providing many much needed lower grade sport climbs. These are included in the second edition of "A55 Sport Climbs".
rockcat - 19/Dec/11
Don't rely on these directions to get you there...came across it more by chance. Also, the pub appears to have been shut for a long while...and whilst I didn't climb here, I couldn't see more than a handful of lower offs...are all the routes still there?
chers - 19/Mar/11
A nice little afternoon's sport climbing is this. the HVS and E1 (yes, I know I said sport, but that's how it's written in the old Rockfax guide!) in the middle of the face are nice and pleasant. There is some harder stuff there which may merit a revisit sometime. Oh, and the pub that owns the carpark with the face gets on well with climbers - pop in for a pint.
Al Urker - 12/Mar/04
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