Altitude 187m a.s.l
Temporary Approach to Castle Inn Quarry © Mark Reeves
Castle Inn Quarry is tucked away just inland from the coast and provides a very popular line-up of low to mid grade sport climbs that are clean, well-bolted, easily accessed and have a lovely outlook. The quarry has a number of small walls and buttresses - the showpiece being the Main Face that rises straight out of the parking below the crag. The climbing on the Main Face is excellent. Whilst the other walls are not as impressive, they are still worthwhile being on generally good rock and well-equipped.
The crag faces generally south, although sun and shade can be found at most times of the day. The rock dries extremely quickly and there is virtually no seepage, however there is no possibility of climbing when it is actually raining.
If coming from the east, leave the A55 at junction 23 (signed 'Llanddulas') and turn immediately right at the roundabout and then immediately left onto the A547 (signed 'Old Colwyn'). Continue uphill for 1.4 miles and turn left onto Highlands Road. Drive up the hill for 0.5 miles and turn right onto Tan y Craig Road, drive a further 0.4 miles and the car park and crag are on the left.
If coming from the west, leave the A55 at junction 22 (signed 'Old Colwyn'). Drive into the town and turn left at the first roundabout onto the A547. Follow this for 1.2 miles through the town and uphill until just over the brow of the hill. Turn right onto Highlands Road. Drive up the hill for 0.5 miles and turn right onto Tan y Craig Road, drive a further 0.4 miles and the car park and crag are on the left.
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