UKC

14m.

Rockfax Description
14m. Climb a crack to the arete of the buttress. Where it starts to slant away right, pull onto the face and follow a thin crack directly and with some difficulty in the upper part (big cam). Superb climbing, as good as anything of its grade in the Peak. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50, 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Castle Naze, Every Climb at Castle Naze, The Gritlist, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, Mark's grit selection 2021

Feedback

User Date Notes
Iain Thow 19 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Yes, best route here, a bit of everything, just enjoy the delicate top without faffing about for the not very good pro.
 
Show beta
βeta: Yes, best route here, a bit of everything, just enjoy the delicate top without faffing about for the not very good pro.
shaun walby 19 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Superb VS climbing...might not be technically top end 4c for any one move, but it gets harder as you climb with the crux balance move right at the top (well protected big & small cams). Its where you are when this one challenges you that made it feel solid upper end VS4c for me.
 
Show beta
βeta: Superb VS climbing...might not be technically top end 4c for any one move, but it gets harder as you climb with the crux balance move right at the top (well protected big & small cams). Its where you are when this one challenges you that made it feel solid upper end VS4c for me.
Si dH 9 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Don't need any large gear. Get a bomber nut at the start of the thin crack then jus go, the quality of the nut placements near the top isn't worth the effort of placing them. Proper VS, tricky moves all the way once you leave the wide crack and at least a couple that I felt were solid 4c. Lovely route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don't need any large gear. Get a bomber nut at the start of the thin crack then jus go, the quality of the nut placements near the top isn't worth the effort of placing them. Proper VS, tricky moves all the way once you leave the wide crack and at least a couple that I felt were solid 4c. Lovely route.
leon 5 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: i agree, top quality route. interesting throughout. gear's fine.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i agree, top quality route. interesting throughout. gear's fine.
Whealiebob 24 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I agree - great climb. Constant, but not too difficult 4b/c climbing that gets better the further up you go. Rivals any VS on grit for quality. (Except The File perhaps...)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I agree - great climb. Constant, but not too difficult 4b/c climbing that gets better the further up you go. Rivals any VS on grit for quality. (Except The File perhaps...)
Crammy 22 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Great climb. Don't agree it's "high in the grade" as guide book now says. Well protected all the way with barely 4c moves.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great climb. Don't agree it's "high in the grade" as guide book now says. Well protected all the way with barely 4c moves.
Monk 8 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I wouldn't call the moves bold, there is perfect protection all the way. An excellent route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I wouldn't call the moves bold, there is perfect protection all the way. An excellent route.

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Route of Interest

Route 1

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Dovestone Tor)
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