10m.
Rockfax Description
10m. Climb the fierce thin cracks past the pod to a final groove. © Rockfax
FA. Jim Rubery 1984.
Ticklists
The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Every Climb at Castle Naze , Hardest E1s on grit
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Simon Caldwell | 26 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: "Why check it when it was put up by my old mate" - a very traditional approach to guidebook writing! | βeta? | |
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βeta: "Why check it when it was put up by my old mate" - a very traditional approach to guidebook writing! |
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| Chris Craggs | 21 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: Why check it when it was put up by my old mate JR - though looks like he couldn't grade flour!!! CC | βeta? | |
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βeta: Why check it when it was put up by my old mate JR - though looks like he couldn't grade flour!!! CC |
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| CurlyStevo | 21 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: Why would rockfax check the routes when we'll do it for them? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Why would rockfax check the routes when we'll do it for them? |
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| Stig | 21 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: Frigged my way up this. I don't think there are any 6a moves on it but why can't the guide writers bite the bullet on this route? Extremely pumpy, very fingery and virtually noting for the feet. Top end E2 5c I feel. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Frigged my way up this. I don't think there are any 6a moves on it but why can't the guide writers bite the bullet on this route? Extremely pumpy, very fingery and virtually noting for the feet. Top end E2 5c I feel. |
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| Neil Ireson | 3 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: A good route, although spoilt by the easy escape to the left. The only reason I voted it E1 5c was because there's no button for E2 6a. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A good route, although spoilt by the easy escape to the left. The only reason I voted it E1 5c was because there's no button for E2 6a. |
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| Dave Garnett | 17 May, 2004 |
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βeta: Protracted siege... disgraceful scenes... nearly threw up when I finally pulled over the top... definitive HVS. Classic! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Protracted siege... disgraceful scenes... nearly threw up when I finally pulled over the top... definitive HVS. Classic! |
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| Pythonist | 17 May, 2004 |
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βeta: Not a chance it's less than E1 5c (as with Dan, I would normally walk this). Quite nice moves into the Pod, but getting out of it to the upper moves of the V beat me so thoroughly that I only just made the escape up the HS next door. My brother seconded (leads roughly same grade as me), and even then couldn't figure out the top V move. Only way to justify the grade would be to escape the upper V to the left, but that would miss the point of the climb entirely. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Not a chance it's less than E1 5c (as with Dan, I would normally walk this). Quite nice moves into the Pod, but getting out of it to the upper moves of the V beat me so thoroughly that I only just made the escape up the HS next door. My brother seconded (leads roughly same grade as me), and even then couldn't figure out the top V move. Only way to justify the grade would be to escape the upper V to the left, but that would miss the point of the climb entirely. |
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| Dan Arkle | 13 Jul, 2003 |
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βeta: This route is my Nemesis. I regularly onsight E2 and can usually work 6b moves. However I've failed to get up this on three occaisions, and can't even nearly do it on toprope. I think the crack must be too thin for my fingers. At least E1 | βeta? | |
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βeta: This route is my Nemesis. I regularly onsight E2 and can usually work 6b moves. However I've failed to get up this on three occaisions, and can't even nearly do it on toprope. I think the crack must be too thin for my fingers. At least E1 |
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| Frank the Husky | 13 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: HVS 5b? yet more proof that youbloodyrockfaxlot don't check your routes! get out of the odfice and onto the rock! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: HVS 5b? yet more proof that youbloodyrockfaxlot don't check your routes! get out of the odfice and onto the rock! |
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Logged Ascents
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Guidebooks for Castle Naze
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Route of Interest
Kelly's Overhang
Grade: E1 5c ***
(Stanage North)