UKC

10m.

Rockfax Description
10m. Climb the fierce thin cracks past the pod to a final groove. © Rockfax

FA. Jim Rubery 1984.

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Every Climb at Castle Naze

Feedback

User Date Notes
Simon Caldwell 26 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: "Why check it when it was put up by my old mate" - a very traditional approach to guidebook writing!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: "Why check it when it was put up by my old mate" - a very traditional approach to guidebook writing!
Chris Craggs 21 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Why check it when it was put up by my old mate JR - though looks like he couldn't grade flour!!! CC
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Why check it when it was put up by my old mate JR - though looks like he couldn't grade flour!!! CC
CurlyStevo 21 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Why would rockfax check the routes when we'll do it for them?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Why would rockfax check the routes when we'll do it for them?
Stig 21 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Frigged my way up this. I don't think there are any 6a moves on it but why can't the guide writers bite the bullet on this route? Extremely pumpy, very fingery and virtually noting for the feet. Top end E2 5c I feel.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Frigged my way up this. I don't think there are any 6a moves on it but why can't the guide writers bite the bullet on this route? Extremely pumpy, very fingery and virtually noting for the feet. Top end E2 5c I feel.
Neil Ireson 3 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A good route, although spoilt by the easy escape to the left. The only reason I voted it E1 5c was because there's no button for E2 6a.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A good route, although spoilt by the easy escape to the left. The only reason I voted it E1 5c was because there's no button for E2 6a.
Dave Garnett 17 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Protracted siege... disgraceful scenes... nearly threw up when I finally pulled over the top... definitive HVS. Classic!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Protracted siege... disgraceful scenes... nearly threw up when I finally pulled over the top... definitive HVS. Classic!
Pythonist 17 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Not a chance it's less than E1 5c (as with Dan, I would normally walk this). Quite nice moves into the Pod, but getting out of it to the upper moves of the V beat me so thoroughly that I only just made the escape up the HS next door. My brother seconded (leads roughly same grade as me), and even then couldn't figure out the top V move. Only way to justify the grade would be to escape the upper V to the left, but that would miss the point of the climb entirely.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not a chance it's less than E1 5c (as with Dan, I would normally walk this). Quite nice moves into the Pod, but getting out of it to the upper moves of the V beat me so thoroughly that I only just made the escape up the HS next door. My brother seconded (leads roughly same grade as me), and even then couldn't figure out the top V move. Only way to justify the grade would be to escape the upper V to the left, but that would miss the point of the climb entirely.
Dan Arkle 13 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: This route is my Nemesis. I regularly onsight E2 and can usually work 6b moves. However I've failed to get up this on three occaisions, and can't even nearly do it on toprope. I think the crack must be too thin for my fingers. At least E1
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route is my Nemesis. I regularly onsight E2 and can usually work 6b moves. However I've failed to get up this on three occaisions, and can't even nearly do it on toprope. I think the crack must be too thin for my fingers. At least E1
Frank the Husky 13 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: HVS 5b? yet more proof that youbloodyrockfaxlot don't check your routes! get out of the odfice and onto the rock!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: HVS 5b? yet more proof that youbloodyrockfaxlot don't check your routes! get out of the odfice and onto the rock!

Logged Ascents

87 users have logged this
14 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 30
High 9b+
Mid 9b+
Low 9b+
High 9b
Mid 9b
Low 9b
High 9a+
Mid 9a+
Low 9a+
High 9a
Mid 9a
Low 9a
High 8c+
Mid 8c+
Low 8c+
High 8c
Mid 8c
Low 8c
High 8b+
Mid 8b+
Low 8b+
High 8b
Mid 8b
Low 8b
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 10
Mid 10
Low 10
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
High 9
Mid 9
Low 9
High 3b
Mid 3b
Low 3b
High 8
Mid 8
Low 8
High 3a
Mid 3a
Low 3a
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
High 2c
Mid 2c
Low 2c
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 2b
Mid 2b
Low 2b
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 2a
Mid 2a
Low 2a
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
High 1c
Mid 1c
Low 1c
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
High 1b
Mid 1b
Low 1b
High 2
Mid 2
Low 2
High 1a
Mid 1a
Low 1a
High 1
Mid 1
Low 1
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 29
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Dogged
DNF
Onsighted
Redpoint
Repeated
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Tippler

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)
Loading Notifications...