UKC

10m.

Rockfax Description
10m. Climb the fierce thin cracks past the pod to a final groove. © Rockfax

FA. Jim Rubery 1984.

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Every Climb at Castle Naze , Hardest E1s on grit

Feedback

User Date Notes
Simon Caldwell 26 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: "Why check it when it was put up by my old mate" - a very traditional approach to guidebook writing!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: "Why check it when it was put up by my old mate" - a very traditional approach to guidebook writing!
CurlyStevo 21 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Why would rockfax check the routes when we'll do it for them?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Why would rockfax check the routes when we'll do it for them?
Stig 21 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Frigged my way up this. I don't think there are any 6a moves on it but why can't the guide writers bite the bullet on this route? Extremely pumpy, very fingery and virtually noting for the feet. Top end E2 5c I feel.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Frigged my way up this. I don't think there are any 6a moves on it but why can't the guide writers bite the bullet on this route? Extremely pumpy, very fingery and virtually noting for the feet. Top end E2 5c I feel.
Neil Ireson 3 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A good route, although spoilt by the easy escape to the left. The only reason I voted it E1 5c was because there's no button for E2 6a.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A good route, although spoilt by the easy escape to the left. The only reason I voted it E1 5c was because there's no button for E2 6a.
Dave Garnett 17 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Protracted siege... disgraceful scenes... nearly threw up when I finally pulled over the top... definitive HVS. Classic!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Protracted siege... disgraceful scenes... nearly threw up when I finally pulled over the top... definitive HVS. Classic!
Pythonist 17 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Not a chance it's less than E1 5c (as with Dan, I would normally walk this). Quite nice moves into the Pod, but getting out of it to the upper moves of the V beat me so thoroughly that I only just made the escape up the HS next door. My brother seconded (leads roughly same grade as me), and even then couldn't figure out the top V move. Only way to justify the grade would be to escape the upper V to the left, but that would miss the point of the climb entirely.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not a chance it's less than E1 5c (as with Dan, I would normally walk this). Quite nice moves into the Pod, but getting out of it to the upper moves of the V beat me so thoroughly that I only just made the escape up the HS next door. My brother seconded (leads roughly same grade as me), and even then couldn't figure out the top V move. Only way to justify the grade would be to escape the upper V to the left, but that would miss the point of the climb entirely.
Dan Arkle 13 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: This route is my Nemesis. I regularly onsight E2 and can usually work 6b moves. However I've failed to get up this on three occaisions, and can't even nearly do it on toprope. I think the crack must be too thin for my fingers. At least E1
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route is my Nemesis. I regularly onsight E2 and can usually work 6b moves. However I've failed to get up this on three occaisions, and can't even nearly do it on toprope. I think the crack must be too thin for my fingers. At least E1
Frank the Husky 13 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: HVS 5b? yet more proof that youbloodyrockfaxlot don't check your routes! get out of the odfice and onto the rock!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: HVS 5b? yet more proof that youbloodyrockfaxlot don't check your routes! get out of the odfice and onto the rock!

Logged Ascents

104 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Castle Naze

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 17 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 34
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 32
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Dogged
Onsighted
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Link

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)

Loading Notifications...