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12m.

Rockfax Description
12m. The classic of the crag and low in the grade. Using glassy slopers reach a good hold (5b for the short) and attain a standing position. Pad across the scoop and go up a thin crack to a pocket (Hex/cam) and a tricky finish on the left. Barefoot ascents have long been traditional though modern sticky rubber is a much better idea! For those who can't manage the start, the scoop can be accessed from Keep Arete at VS 4c. © Rockfax

FA. Stanley Jeffcoat 1914.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/2/ The Search For Difficulty Begins., The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Castle Naze, Every Climb at Castle Naze, On Peak Rock, The Gritlist, Peak District Grit Graded List

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User Date Notes
andy_b135 19 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Easy for the grade, but a distinct lack of gear, you need a hex for the pocket, I put i friend in it which wriggled out. My first HVS though, not much harder than nozag
βeta?
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βeta: Easy for the grade, but a distinct lack of gear, you need a hex for the pocket, I put i friend in it which wriggled out. My first HVS though, not much harder than nozag
The Mountain Goat 26 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Led this on what I thought was my first HVS lead, only to find later that I had done the Vs 4c start. As long as your not drunk balencing in the scoop shouldn't cause problems. I to experiance a worrying lack of gear at the top! Will definatly go back and do it properly.
βeta?
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βeta: Led this on what I thought was my first HVS lead, only to find later that I had done the Vs 4c start. As long as your not drunk balencing in the scoop shouldn't cause problems. I to experiance a worrying lack of gear at the top! Will definatly go back and do it properly.
Alex1 9 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Rockcentric 9 into the hole and twist bomber. Saves your second spending 10 minutes attempting to get the cam out (ahem Si). If you use high step ups this root will seem much easier.
βeta?
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βeta: Rockcentric 9 into the hole and twist bomber. Saves your second spending 10 minutes attempting to get the cam out (ahem Si). If you use high step ups this root will seem much easier.
Si dH 9 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Yep friend 3 absolutely bomber in the hole although tricky to squeeze in, and out! I didnt get anything else in after that although I could if I'd looked more carefully, the top-out definitely made it feel like HVS, very bold.
βeta?
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βeta: Yep friend 3 absolutely bomber in the hole although tricky to squeeze in, and out! I didnt get anything else in after that although I could if I'd looked more carefully, the top-out definitely made it feel like HVS, very bold.
Rampikino 14 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Gripping - much more than expected. Did the 4c start and it still shattered my nerves. The gear was hit and miss, only saw the high friend placement late, but it made all the difference in making that steep move over the top. A good route, but feels serious.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Gripping - much more than expected. Did the 4c start and it still shattered my nerves. The gear was hit and miss, only saw the high friend placement late, but it made all the difference in making that steep move over the top. A good route, but feels serious.
Gripped 3 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I couldn't find anything near the top so fluttered my way over the top! Brilliant!
βeta?
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βeta: I couldn't find anything near the top so fluttered my way over the top! Brilliant!

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 182
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 200
Votes cast 177
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Three Pebble Slab

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Froggatt Edge)