UKC Logbook - 'Direct Route'

Rockfax Description
An absorbing long lead up the centre of the wall. Climb the steep wall past a small spike to a good cam placement, then head left to meet a long crack-line on the upper face. Follow the crack-line to ledges then take the final bulge on good holds to the top. © Rockfax

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Select VS Climbs in the Lake District , Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , A Lakeland Apprenticeship , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Lakeland 3 Star VS Routes

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User	Date		Notes
matt1024	4 Jul	Show βeta βeta: Spike remains in situ but very loose - avoid. Holds adequate without this.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Spike remains in situ but very loose - avoid. Holds adequate without this.
milanboez	24 Sep, 2024	Show βeta βeta: Spike at the start is about to fall off. First 10 meters is HVS 4c - v pumpy and spaced / poor gear (I yoyo'd a couple times as v pumpy placing poor nuts - big moves to reverse, nearly pumped out!). Climb with conviction as there is much ground fall potential. Feels like sport climbing (> sport 5+ moves?) which is cool if you get in the zone. The rest is VS feeling. Another long run out at the top of the main crack as it turns into a groove. And unprotected again for last 7ish meters above and left of the small tree. A little exciting for VS - if this is your max grade be warned!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Spike at the start is about to fall off. First 10 meters is HVS 4c - v pumpy and spaced / poor gear (I yoyo'd a couple times as v pumpy placing poor nuts - big moves to reverse, nearly pumped out!). Climb with conviction as there is much ground fall potential. Feels like sport climbing (> sport 5+ moves?) which is cool if you get in the zone. The rest is VS feeling. Another long run out at the top of the main crack as it turns into a groove. And unprotected again for last 7ish meters above and left of the small tree. A little exciting for VS - if this is your max grade be warned!
Alison Cairns	18 Aug, 2024	Show βeta βeta: The (fairly) crucial spike - used as handhold & protection - at the start is very loose! It is mechanically wedged for an outward pull, and a sling sits around the base so is probably OK - but it's not at all confidence inspiring and no doubt will come off at some point. Be careful!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The (fairly) crucial spike - used as handhold & protection - at the start is very loose! It is mechanically wedged for an outward pull, and a sling sits around the base so is probably OK - but it's not at all confidence inspiring and no doubt will come off at some point. Be careful!
Nigel Hooker	25 May, 2023	Show βeta βeta: Found camera & some climbing gear near foot of Direct Route on 24 May, post & describe and will sort return.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Found camera & some climbing gear near foot of Direct Route on 24 May, post & describe and will sort return.
Lottie Grigg	11 Oct, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Absolutely fantastic route. Sustained but not desperate (although I hear gear is awkward), really fun variety of moves, loved it.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Absolutely fantastic route. Sustained but not desperate (although I hear gear is awkward), really fun variety of moves, loved it.