A classic which is now back in play after a rockfall altered the finish. The last few metres of pitch 3 are on some large stacked flakes. Start at a short slab below a small tree and a crack in the wall above on the left.
1) 4b, 14m. Move up the slab, then pull up left to the short hand-crack that quickly leads to a ledge and belay.
2) 4c, 17m. Head up past a block to an overlap. Step right and climb the corner, past a thin section, to a large tree and belay ledge on the left.
3) 5a, 30m. Step up right to the long groove and follow it to a pinnacle. From the top of the pinnacle make a few bold moves to better holds and some protection. Continue up the groove to its end and move around to easy but fractured ground. Climb gently up the arete on stacked flakes to a large ledge and belay.
4) 18m. Follow the easy wall on the right to a ramp and go left up it to a spike belay. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
1) 33m From the lowest point of the crag climb a very easy slab to a tree stamp. Use this to step on to the juggy wall and gain a grass ledge. Follow the corner above.
2) 32m (5a) Ascend the slab on the left to the Pinnacle (possible belay). From the top stride across and step up boldly on to the ramp/gangway and follow it more easily to its top. (NB: it was from here pre-rockfall the route then descended and traversed out to the left, before climbing the rickety flakes up to the recess with a yew. Now all gone.)
From the top of the ramp climb up into a corner and ascend the obvious arête on flake holds to a ledge. Nut belays.
3) 20m From the right hand end of the ledge, climb a wall on good holds to join the top of Zig Zag.
Colin Downer. Cameron Fowler. Alt leads.
4th January 2019
Newsflash (12/4/19): From the left hand edge of the ledge, a direct finish from the belay ascends directly to the top. (5b)
The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain , Select VS Climbs in the Lake District , Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers , Jim Birkett First Ascents , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , A Lakeland Apprenticeship
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