UKC

Rockfax Description
A classic which is now back in play after a rockfall altered the finish. The last few metres of pitch 3 are on some large stacked flakes. Start at a short slab below a small tree and a crack in the wall above on the left.
1) 4b, 14m. Move up the slab, then pull up left to the short hand-crack that quickly leads to a ledge and belay.
2) 4c, 17m. Head up past a block to an overlap. Step right and climb the corner, past a thin section, to a large tree and belay ledge on the left.
3) 5a, 30m. Step up right to the long groove and follow it to a pinnacle. From the top of the pinnacle make a few bold moves to better holds and some protection. Continue up the groove to its end and move around to easy but fractured ground. Climb gently up the arete on stacked flakes to a large ledge and belay.
4) 18m. Follow the easy wall on the right to a ramp and go left up it to a spike belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
1) 33m From the lowest point of the crag climb a very easy slab to a tree stamp. Use this to step on to the juggy wall and gain a grass ledge. Follow the corner above.

2) 32m (5a) Ascend the slab on the left to the Pinnacle (possible belay). From the top stride across and step up boldly on to the ramp/gangway and follow it more easily to its top. (NB: it was from here pre-rockfall the route then descended and traversed out to the left, before climbing the rickety flakes up to the recess with a yew. Now all gone.)

Instead:
From the top of the ramp climb up into a corner and ascend the obvious arĂȘte on flake holds to a ledge. Nut belays.

3) 20m From the right hand end of the ledge, climb a wall on good holds to join the top of Zig Zag.

Colin Downer. Cameron Fowler. Alt leads.
4th January 2019

Newsflash (12/4/19): From the left hand edge of the ledge, a direct finish from the belay ascends directly to the top. (5b)

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain, Select VS Climbs in the Lake District, Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers, Jim Birkett First Ascents, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District, ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50, A Lakeland Apprenticeship

Feedback

User Date Notes
gav 1 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Got a bit confused with the route description. The pinnacle is in the middle of P3 not the end. You just continue up the gangway until it runs out, then step round the corner, and totter up the choss.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Got a bit confused with the route description. The pinnacle is in the middle of P3 not the end. You just continue up the gangway until it runs out, then step round the corner, and totter up the choss.
K Farrell 9 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The end of the gangway is loose but can be climbed with care.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The end of the gangway is loose but can be climbed with care.
Olli-C 9 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The Yew belay is gone, a few metres of sketchy loose stuff to get up to a suitable belay.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The Yew belay is gone, a few metres of sketchy loose stuff to get up to a suitable belay.

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 118
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 110
Votes cast 109
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
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Route of Interest

Kipling Groove

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Gimmer Crag)
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