UKC

Rockfax Description
A protracted expedition that weaves its way up the face. Start at a block below a large tree.
1) 4c, 34m. Head up to the tree and then take the left-leading rampline to a ledge on the edge of the face.
2) 12m. Scramble right and traverse a flake to a ledge and belay (this is shared with Overhanging Bastion).
3) 4c, 26m. On the right is a smooth narrow slab that cuts up rightwards. Gain the slab and follow it to below a vertical crack. Climb the crack and its continuation to a ledge and belay.
4) 32m. Take the long slab to its end and a spike belay. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Great VS Climbs in the Lake District, Select VS Climbs in the Lake District, Jim Birkett First Ascents, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District

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User Date Notes
Johnny5a 2 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Didn't do P4, the ungraded last pitch....very mossy. Opted for the beckoning abseil station a few mts to the right which is at the top of Thirlmere Eliminate.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Didn't do P4, the ungraded last pitch....very mossy. Opted for the beckoning abseil station a few mts to the right which is at the top of Thirlmere Eliminate.
gav 1 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Filthy; and with protection poor to the first tree a bit adventurous at the start. Quite a few loose holds about. The good hold on P3 is very loose. Belays at the end of P1 and P3 very thin. Start of P4 also caked in moss and lichen.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Filthy; and with protection poor to the first tree a bit adventurous at the start. Quite a few loose holds about. The good hold on P3 is very loose. Belays at the end of P1 and P3 very thin. Start of P4 also caked in moss and lichen.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 37
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 34
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Dexter Wall

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Grey Crag (Buttermere))
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