UKC

Rockfax Description
The stacked line of overhangs to the right of the cave is a formidable undertaking. Protection is mostly from bolts, but some trad gear is needed on the easier sections. Use double ropes and extend all runners as the overhang edges are very sharp and may cut the rope. Start right of the fence and take the slab to an overhang. Move up a V-groove before crossing right to a good ledge. Take the slab on the left to below the huge overhang and pull over it to a groove. Move right and up to the next overhang where a hidden finger-pocket is needed to gain the slab above. Continue up the groove and wide crack on the right to an easier finish up a final groove and corner. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An impressive route through the overhangs with some unusual moves. Start in a slabby corner R. of Hot Pies etc. Climb the corner and pull out R. past a bolt to reach a ledge and good spike. Move up L. across a slab and make a hard move up into a hanging groove (bolt). Step R. (bolt) and make a long blind reach over the next roof for a good hold. Throw caution to the wind and haul over the roof past another bolt to gain easier ground. Move up and R. past a slot to gain the easier finishing groove.

Martin Dale & Rich Kirby 1990.

Ticklists

Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Ultimate E3 ticklist, ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50, Lakes Sport and Slate Top 50

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High E4
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Shape of Things to Come

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Eagle Crag (Buttermere))
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