Rockfax Description
The stacked line of overhangs to the right of the cave is a formidable undertaking. Protection is mostly from bolts, but some trad gear is needed on the easier sections. Use double ropes and extend all runners as the overhang edges are very sharp and may cut the rope. Start right of the fence and take the slab to an overhang. Move up a V-groove before crossing right to a good ledge. Take the slab on the left to below the huge overhang and pull over it to a groove. Move right and up to the next overhang where a hidden finger-pocket is needed to gain the slab above. Continue up the groove and wide crack on the right to an easier finish up a final groove and corner. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An impressive route through the overhangs with some unusual moves. Start in a slabby corner R. of Hot Pies etc. Climb the corner and pull out R. past a bolt to reach a ledge and good spike. Move up L. across a slab and make a hard move up into a hanging groove (bolt). Step R. (bolt) and make a long blind reach over the next roof for a good hold. Throw caution to the wind and haul over the roof past another bolt to gain easier ground. Move up and R. past a slot to gain the easier finishing groove.

Martin Dale & Rich Kirby 1990.


Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , Ultimate E3 ticklist , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , Lakes Sport and Slate Top 50


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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
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High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
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High 5b
Mid 5b
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Votes cast 30
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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Route of Interest
The Nazgul

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Scafell Crag)

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