User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Fakey Rocks | 13 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: Re P1 only....given 6b+ in Céüse guide, but it's probably 6c+ or 7a!...Warning, needs some chain link + ring as current lower off = small maillon on bottom expansion bolt with rusty stud linked to higher expansion bolt by length of worn rope. Chossy start, pulled some blocks off below roof but OK now, leads into some quality climbing after b3, but of a style higher up that is perhaps uncommon/not popular?! at Céüse, except for it being thuggy + steep. It's hard to read, possibly some jams might help, get the holds right and you might get an exciting but shakey onsight, but if I could honestly redpoint this I would give it mid 7a. So expect some quality whippers if you normally onsight 6b+ OK, cos this is hard, + probably undergraded as it then leads into 3 stacked 7b+ pitches to the top. Its a great route, I loved it in the end, but you might not! **.... | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Re P1 only....given 6b+ in Céüse guide, but it's probably 6c+ or 7a!...Warning, needs some chain link + ring as current lower off = small maillon on bottom expansion bolt with rusty stud linked to higher expansion bolt by length of worn rope. Chossy start, pulled some blocks off below roof but OK now, leads into some quality climbing after b3, but of a style higher up that is perhaps uncommon/not popular?! at Céüse, except for it being thuggy + steep. It's hard to read, possibly some jams might help, get the holds right and you might get an exciting but shakey onsight, but if I could honestly redpoint this I would give it mid 7a. So expect some quality whippers if you normally onsight 6b+ OK, cos this is hard, + probably undergraded as it then leads into 3 stacked 7b+ pitches to the top. Its a great route, I loved it in the end, but you might not! **.... |
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Grade: 7b+ ***
(Falaise du Grand Bois)