40m, 3 pitches.
NOTE - This is the original description. The first pitch was damaged in February 2014 and the route is now harder. Only tick this version if you did the route before Feb 2014.
A classic expedition up the seaward side of the large tooth-topped pinnacle, the summit of which can be seen in the lower reaches of Pinnacle Gully. There are two starts described the second being VS, a fine pitch but more difficult and serious than the rest of the climb. Start at the base of a steep and rounded vertical crack in the middle of the buttress.
1) 18m. From the base of the steep crack move up leftwards to a wide rounded crack in the corner on the left and follow this to a ledge. Move up the wall and crack leftwards to a good ledge and belay.
1a) VS 4b, 17m. Climb the tricky stepped vein in the wall 5m left of the steep rounded crack to a good small spike runner. Pull up to easier terrain and climb the wall just right of the arête to a good ledge and belay.
2) 10m. Take the steep crack above the ledge on good holds to another ledge and belay.
3) 12m. Climb up the corner behind the stance and move right onto the front of the pinnacle, beneath a wide crack in the summit block. Move up into the crack and climb to the summit.
A classic expedition up the seaward side of the large tooth-topped pinnacle, the summit of which can be seen in the lower reaches of Pinnacle Gully. There are two starts described the second being VS, a fine pitch but more difficult and serious than the rest of the climb. Start at the base of a steep and rounded vertical crack in the middle of the buttress.
1) 18m. From the base of the steep crack move up leftwards to a wide rounded crack in the corner on the left and follow this to a ledge. Move up the wall and crack leftwards to a good ledge and belay.
1a) VS 4b, 17m. Climb the tricky stepped vein in the wall 5m left of the steep rounded crack to a good small spike runner. Pull up to easier terrain and climb the wall just right of the arête to a good ledge and belay.
2) 10m. Take the steep crack above the ledge on good holds to another ledge and belay.
3) 12m. Climb up the corner behind the stance and move right onto the front of the pinnacle, beneath a wide crack in the summit block. Move up into the crack and climb to the summit.
FA. J.Mallory, M.Roster 24.03.1940. FA. J.Barford, F.Feilden 25.08.1940 (Variation first pitch).
Ticklists
Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist , West Country Climbs
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Diverrobster | 28 Jan, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: This was originally graded a V.Diff in the guidebook in 1997 in the Bosigran and Chair Ladder guide. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: This was originally graded a V.Diff in the guidebook in 1997 in the Bosigran and Chair Ladder guide. |
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Route of Interest
Box of Delights
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Vicarage Cliff)