UKC

40m, 3 pitches. NOTE - This is the original description. The first pitch was damaged in February 2014 and the route is now harder. Only tick this version if you did the route before Feb 2014.

A classic expedition up the seaward side of the large tooth-topped pinnacle, the summit of which can be seen in the lower reaches of Pinnacle Gully. There are two starts described the second being VS, a fine pitch but more difficult and serious than the rest of the climb. Start at the base of a steep and rounded vertical crack in the middle of the buttress.
1) 18m. From the base of the steep crack move up leftwards to a wide rounded crack in the corner on the left and follow this to a ledge. Move up the wall and crack leftwards to a good ledge and belay.
1a) VS 4b, 17m. Climb the tricky stepped vein in the wall 5m left of the steep rounded crack to a good small spike runner. Pull up to easier terrain and climb the wall just right of the arĂȘte to a good ledge and belay.
2) 10m. Take the steep crack above the ledge on good holds to another ledge and belay.
3) 12m. Climb up the corner behind the stance and move right onto the front of the pinnacle, beneath a wide crack in the summit block. Move up into the crack and climb to the summit.

FA. J.Mallory, M.Roster 24.03.1940. FA. J.Barford, F.Feilden 25.08.1940 (Variation first pitch).

Ticklists

Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist , West Country Climbs

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User Date Notes
Diverrobster 28 Jan Show βeta
βeta: This was originally graded a V.Diff in the guidebook in 1997 in the Bosigran and Chair Ladder guide.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This was originally graded a V.Diff in the guidebook in 1997 in the Bosigran and Chair Ladder guide.

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 2
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Doorpost

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Bosigran)

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