UKC

40m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic expedition up the seaward side of the large tooth-topped pinnacle, the summit of which can be seen in the lower reaches of Pinnacle Gully. Start at the base of The Pinnacle, at a vague ramp in newly-exposed rock, which leads right to a prominent left-facing corner.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb the ramp and corner to ledges on the right, pinnacle belay up left.
2) 10m. Take the steep crack above the ledge on good holds to another ledge and belay.
3) 12m. Climb up the corner behind the stance and move right onto the front of the pinnacle, beneath a wide crack in the summit block. Move up into the crack and climb to the summit.
Descent - Either stay roped-up and downclimb the steep wall to the left (looking up the gully) at Diff standard, or abseil from a prominent spike on the landward side of the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The original first pitches were destroyed by rockfall in the winter of 2013/4. The 2017 CC guide recommends starting well to the right, just left of a deep chimney, and climbing diagonally leftwards to reach the juggy crack on the original route (4b).

FA. J.Mallory, M.Roster 24.03.1940. FA. J.Barford, F.Feilden 25.08.1940 (Variation first pitch).

Ticklists

Classic Rock , Kernow , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , South West VDiff-HVS , Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Cornwall 2021 , Cornwall , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett

Feedback

User Date Notes
badgerjockey 18 Apr Show βeta
βeta: We abbed in off a big pointy pinnacle about 1.5m up and 2m to the right of the original P1 belay pictured in the rockfax. To get to this you need to step across the top of the corner/chimney to the right of the tower climbed by this route. For P1 we climbed the ramp left of the base of the corner, into the corner then the thin crack/flake line direct to the pointy pinnacle. Wouldn’t recommend the direct flake bit as is crumbly and more like dodgy 4c (good moves though, just probably unsafe- top rope from the pinnacle?). In stead, either traverse left just below the thin crack line to join the wide juggy crack line to a secure but hanging belay where the old ledge was, or press on rightwards to sit at the pinnacle, or avoid traversing altogether and just climb the lumpy right arête of the chimney to the pinnacle.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We abbed in off a big pointy pinnacle about 1.5m up and 2m to the right of the original P1 belay pictured in the rockfax. To get to this you need to step across the top of the corner/chimney to the right of the tower climbed by this route. For P1 we climbed the ramp left of the base of the corner, into the corner then the thin crack/flake line direct to the pointy pinnacle. Wouldn’t recommend the direct flake bit as is crumbly and more like dodgy 4c (good moves though, just probably unsafe- top rope from the pinnacle?). In stead, either traverse left just below the thin crack line to join the wide juggy crack line to a secure but hanging belay where the old ledge was, or press on rightwards to sit at the pinnacle, or avoid traversing altogether and just climb the lumpy right arête of the chimney to the pinnacle.
glaramara 12 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Traversed in to avoid lower death trap. I found this route intimidating for a v diff.
Show beta
βeta: Traversed in to avoid lower death trap. I found this route intimidating for a v diff.

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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
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DNF
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Dogged
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Route of Interest
Flannel Avenue

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Chair Ladder)

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