UKC

Restricted Access

The crag lies within a National Nature Reserve and is an important area of SSSI semi-ancient woodland with Special Protection Area (SPA) status. The Lake District National Park Authority (responsible for managing recreation at Chapel Head) and the BMC have worked closely together to develop the following good practice guidelines which should be followed by all climbers visiting the crag:

  • No access to cliffs north of central gully.
  • Please do not remove ivy or damage trees along crag base.
  • Take all litter home with you.
  • There are no toilets at Chapel Head - please be discreet.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Signed restriction for nesting peregrine, applies to the whole crag. This pair of birds are well established having nested sucessfully on the crag for a number of years.

As always, the nest site will be monitored and the restriction lifted if the young birds fledge early - this page will be kept udpated as soon as any additional information is received from those monitoring the site which might change the details of the restriction.

21m.

Rockfax Description
A fine and direct line taking in some alluring but sharp tufas. Move up left and then head to steep shallow tufas directly above. Technical moves up the tufas are immediately followed by a pumpy sequence leading to a horizontal break. Step right and then up and back left to the lower-off. © Rockfax

FA. Paul Cornforth 1989.

Feedback

User Date Notes
carl dawson 24 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Spanked? No more than usual. Disappointed, more like... I'd been looking forward to it for years. Incidently has the up-left finish been done? ... the rock's solid and the moves are feasible
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Spanked? No more than usual. Disappointed, more like... I'd been looking forward to it for years. Incidently has the up-left finish been done? ... the rock's solid and the moves are feasible
Kevin Avery 24 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: oh dear!did it spank you?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: oh dear!did it spank you?
carl dawson 23 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Half the route's on a (very) dead tree, the 15 interesting moves have a foot on each of the neighbouring routes at times, and hold your breath on large hollow blocks leading to the lower off... scarcely a 3-star route. The route would be improved by a lower off at the horizontal jugs or, better, work out a (harder)left-hand finish.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Half the route's on a (very) dead tree, the 15 interesting moves have a foot on each of the neighbouring routes at times, and hold your breath on large hollow blocks leading to the lower off... scarcely a 3-star route. The route would be improved by a lower off at the horizontal jugs or, better, work out a (harder)left-hand finish.
Andy Farnell 27 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Another excellent route with continually interesting climbing on perfect rock.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Another excellent route with continually interesting climbing on perfect rock.

Logged Ascents

26 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Chapel Head Scar

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 14 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Wargames

Grade: 7b+ ***
(Chapel Head Scar)

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