UKC

Restricted Access

The crag lies within a National Nature Reserve and is an important area of SSSI semi-ancient woodland with Special Protection Area (SPA) status. The Lake District National Park Authority (responsible for managing recreation at Chapel Head) and the BMC have worked closely together to develop the following good practice guidelines which should be followed by all climbers visiting the crag:

  • No access to cliffs north of central gully.
  • Please do not remove ivy or damage trees along crag base.
  • Take all litter home with you.
  • There are no toilets at Chapel Head - please be discreet.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Signed restriction for nesting peregrine, applies to the whole crag. This pair of birds are well established having nested sucessfully on the crag for a number of years.

As always, the nest site will be monitored and the restriction lifted if the young birds fledge early - this page will be kept udpated as soon as any additional information is received from those monitoring the site which might change the details of the restriction.

21m.

Rockfax Description
A great pitch - if you can do the start! Make a couple of moves up Moonchild before reaching left to some sharp holds that allow a hard move up to better holds. Continue via sustained and varied climbing to a lower-off. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Hubbard 1985.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tim Broughtonshaw 20 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route, some sustained moves and quality rock, only slightly spoilt by the lower off left onto the phantomzone lower off which also makes stripping more awkward.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent route, some sustained moves and quality rock, only slightly spoilt by the lower off left onto the phantomzone lower off which also makes stripping more awkward.
Andy Farnell 27 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Excleent climbing on good rock with continuely interesting climbing interspersed by good rests. One of the best of the grade at the crag.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excleent climbing on good rock with continuely interesting climbing interspersed by good rests. One of the best of the grade at the crag.
nigel baker 21 Oct, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Should be done direct,and may nudge the grade up.
Show beta
βeta: Should be done direct,and may nudge the grade up.

Logged Ascents

229 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Chapel Head Scar

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 20 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 48
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Romancing the Stone

Grade: 7a ***
(Bursting Stone Quarry)

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