UKC

Restricted Access

The crag lies within a National Nature Reserve and is an important area of SSSI semi-ancient woodland with Special Protection Area (SPA) status. The Lake District National Park Authority (responsible for managing recreation at Chapel Head) and the BMC have worked closely together to develop the following good practice guidelines which should be followed by all climbers visiting the crag:

  • No access to cliffs north of central gully.
  • Please do not remove ivy or damage trees along crag base.
  • Take all litter home with you.
  • There are no toilets at Chapel Head - please be discreet.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Signed restriction for nesting peregrine, applies to the whole crag. This pair of birds are well established having nested sucessfully on the crag for a number of years.

As always, the nest site will be monitored and the restriction lifted if the young birds fledge early - this page will be kept udpated as soon as any additional information is received from those monitoring the site which might change the details of the restriction.

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Last update: 07/03/2022  

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25m. As for Eraser Head climb the initial groove of TROAE to pull out left at the third bolt and climb the wall to the left hand end of the first break, make difficult moves up to the second break (junction with TROAE) and finish up left for TROAE. This variation was climbed in 1991 shortly after the first ascent.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jim B 21 Jan Show βeta
βeta: This direct is the left hand finish for Eraser Head, it clambs all of Eraser Head to the junction with TROAE at the 2nd break, and should rightly be called Eraser Head/TROAE or at least state that this is what it is in the guide books 		βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This direct is the left hand finish for Eraser Head, it clambs all of Eraser Head to the junction with TROAE at the 2nd break, and should rightly be called Eraser Head/TROAE or at least state that this is what it is in the guide books
Eduardo Martinez 29 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Basically follow the left hand line of bolts. Maybe should have been called Eraser Head left hand finish. 		βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Basically follow the left hand line of bolts. Maybe should have been called Eraser Head left hand finish.

Logged Ascents

37 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Chapel Head Scar

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire Cover
Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire (2015)
Rockfax
By Mark Glaister
Eden Valley & South Lakes Limestone Cover
Eden Valley & South Lakes Limestone (2012)
Fell & Rock Climbing Club
By R. Kenyon, N. Wharton & J Holden
Guidebook correction for this climb
10 users have this on their wishlist

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High 7b+
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Redpoint
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Electric Warrior

Grade: 7b ***
(Chapel Head Scar)

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