UKC

Restricted Access

The crag lies within a National Nature Reserve and is an important area of SSSI semi-ancient woodland with Special Protection Area (SPA) status. The Lake District National Park Authority (responsible for managing recreation at Chapel Head) and the BMC have worked closely together to develop the following good practice guidelines which should be followed by all climbers visiting the crag:

  • No access to cliffs north of central gully.
  • Please do not remove ivy or damage trees along crag base.
  • Take all litter home with you.
  • There are no toilets at Chapel Head - please be discreet.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Signed restriction for nesting peregrine, applies to the whole crag. This pair of birds are well established having nested sucessfully on the crag for a number of years.

As always, the nest site will be monitored and the restriction lifted if the young birds fledge early - this page will be kept udpated as soon as any additional information is received from those monitoring the site which might change the details of the restriction.

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Last update: 07/03/2022  

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25m. As for Eraser Head climb the initial groove of TROAE to pull out left at the third bolt and climb the wall to the left hand end of the first break, make difficult moves up to the second break (junction with TROAE) and finish up left for TROAE. This variation was climbed in 1991 shortly after the first ascent.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jim B 3 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Should be called Eraser Head / TROAE, instead of pretending its a new line. It was climbed like this in 91 . 		βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Should be called Eraser Head / TROAE, instead of pretending its a new line. It was climbed like this in 91 .
Eduardo Martinez 29 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Basically follow the left hand line of bolts. Maybe should have been called Eraser Head left hand finish. 		βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Basically follow the left hand line of bolts. Maybe should have been called Eraser Head left hand finish.

Logged Ascents

41 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Chapel Head Scar

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire Cover
Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire (2015)
Rockfax
By Mark Glaister
Eden Valley & South Lakes Limestone Cover
Eden Valley & South Lakes Limestone (2012)
Fell & Rock Climbing Club
By R. Kenyon, N. Wharton & J Holden
Guidebook correction for this climb
11 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 10
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Redpoint
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Infinite Horizons

Grade: 7b ***
(St. Bees Head)

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