Restricted Access
The north side of the Gorge is predominantly owned by the National Trust and mapped as Open Access land under the CRoW Act which give a right of access for climbers to use these crags all year. The Cheddar Gorge Access Map gives full details of climbing access throughout the Gorge.
The map references the latest guide to the Gorge - 'Cheddar Gorge Climbs' (M. Crocker, 2015), which has details of the popular crags on the north side and definitive details of restored routes on the south side. It is available from The Gorge Outdoors shop in Cheddar village, as well as other climbing and outdoor shops in the area.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
Dogs should be kept under control on a lead at any crags on the north side of the Gorge.
The National Trust require any new bolting to be cleared with them first - please contact the BMC Access Team if you are considering any bolting work and so we can help in any approach to the Trust.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| remus | 24 Oct, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Upgraded to 7b+ based on votes and feedback from friends. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Upgraded to 7b+ based on votes and feedback from friends. |
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| Fakey Rocks | 2 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Would be nice if someone could suggest an approx regrade for this... My guess is starting at around 7b++, going by tall 8a climbers finding it hard or not doable, but i wonder what they did? There's small holds just right of b2, the horizontal pinch and tiny crimp, that I could almost pull up on, (avoiding any large layaways at full reach over to the right) and some tiny polished feet dimples, that might get me to the left crimps just above b2, that enable finishing it, but i couldn't get them. You would seem to need a really huge span? to go direct on the bolts and crap layaway? with polished to glass smears that way! Perhaps only hard 7b just right of b2, but perhaps also 7b++ that way? | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Would be nice if someone could suggest an approx regrade for this... My guess is starting at around 7b++, going by tall 8a climbers finding it hard or not doable, but i wonder what they did? There's small holds just right of b2, the horizontal pinch and tiny crimp, that I could almost pull up on, (avoiding any large layaways at full reach over to the right) and some tiny polished feet dimples, that might get me to the left crimps just above b2, that enable finishing it, but i couldn't get them. You would seem to need a really huge span? to go direct on the bolts and crap layaway? with polished to glass smears that way! Perhaps only hard 7b just right of b2, but perhaps also 7b++ that way? |
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| jalien | 13 May, 2012 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not a hope of completing the moves on this one - see http://fao2.blogspot.co.uk/2011/10/not-climbing-7a-s.html for an explanation why it might now be stiff at the grade! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Not a hope of completing the moves on this one - see http://fao2.blogspot.co.uk/2011/10/not-climbing-7a-s.html for an explanation why it might now be stiff at the grade! |
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Logged Ascents
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Return of the skyscraper
Grade: 7b+ ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)