Restricted Access
The north side of the Gorge is predominantly owned by the National Trust and mapped as Open Access land under the CRoW Act which give a right of access for climbers to use these crags all year. The Cheddar Gorge Access Map gives full details of climbing access throughout the Gorge.
The map references the latest guide to the Gorge - 'Cheddar Gorge Climbs' (M. Crocker, 2015), which has details of the popular crags on the north side and definitive details of restored routes on the south side. It is available from The Gorge Outdoors shop in Cheddar village, as well as other climbing and outdoor shops in the area.
If you come across any fixed gear in Cheddar Gorge that you think needs attention, please use this form to make a report.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
Dogs should be kept under control on a lead at any crags on the north side of the Gorge.
The National Trust require any new bolting to be cleared with them first - please contact the BMC Access Team if you are considering any bolting work and so we can help in any approach to the Trust.
The start is very fingery and powerful whilst the upper groove eases, but is still tough and sequency. Luckily there is a good shakeout at half height.
Ticklists
Sadact’s Cheddar Legacy , Bolts to clip in Cheddar , Chepstow 7c - 8a+ , Avon and Cheddar Top One Hundred , Road to Gunfighter
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rig open Alban | 21 Aug |
Show βeta
βeta: If you\'re clipping the chains by going to left method, strongly recommended extending the last previous draw. Penultimate sesh I stood on the rope eyeballing the chains twice having climbed clean from the bottom!! Extended draw makes it much easier to place right foot around | ||
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Show beta
βeta: If you're clipping the chains by going to left method, strongly recommended extending the last previous draw. Penultimate sesh I stood on the rope eyeballing the chains twice having climbed clean from the bottom!! Extended draw makes it much easier to place right foot around |
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| geckoman | 5 Jun, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Nice undercling hold before the crux broke off. Now it's still an undercling, but not nice :D Makes the route harder, unsure if it deserves a higher grade. EDIT: Tried the route again. The "new undercling" makes the route marginally harder but does not affect overall difficulty. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Nice undercling hold before the crux broke off. Now it's still an undercling, but not nice :D Makes the route harder, unsure if it deserves a higher grade. EDIT: Tried the route again. The "new undercling" makes the route marginally harder but does not affect overall difficulty. |
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Logged Ascents
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Valley of the Blind
Grade: 7c ***
(Cheddar Gorge North)