UKC

Restricted Access

The north side of the Gorge is predominantly owned by the National Trust and mapped as Open Access land under the CRoW Act which give a right of access for climbers to use these crags all year. The Cheddar Gorge Access Map gives full details of climbing access throughout the Gorge.

The map references the latest guide to the Gorge - 'Cheddar Gorge Climbs' (M. Crocker, 2015), which has details of the popular crags on the north side and definitive details of restored routes on the south side. It is available from The Gorge Outdoors shop in Cheddar village, as well as other climbing and outdoor shops in the area.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Dogs should be kept under control on a lead at any crags on the north side of the Gorge.

The National Trust require any new bolting to be cleared with them first - please contact the BMC Access Team if you are considering any bolting work and so we can help in any approach to the Trust.

Start up Pride Evans Locker, clip the 3rd bolt then instead of traversing right, go up and left on undercuts to the big hole on House Burning Down. Finish up Directoonima. A straightened out, more logical version of Pyrotechnician.

Ian Cooper 01/Oct/2014.

Ticklists

UK 8a and up , 8s with stars near Bristol

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Route of Interest
Return of the Fornicating Gunfighter

Grade: 8a ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)

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