The north side of the Gorge is predominantly owned by the National Trust and mapped as Open Access land under the CRoW Act which give a right of access for climbers to use these crags all year. The Cheddar Gorge Access Map gives full details of climbing access throughout the Gorge.
The mapo references the latest guide to the Gorge - 'Cheddar Gorge Climbs' (M. Crocker, 2015), which has details of the popular crags on the north side and definitive details of restored routes on the south side. It is available from The Gorge Outdoors shop in Cheddar village, as well as other climbing and outdoor shops in the area.
Reason: Nesting Birds
Dogs should be kept under control on a lead at any crags on the north side of the Gorge.
The National Trust require any new bolting to be cleared with them first - please contact the BMC Access Team if you are considering any bolting work and so we can help in any approach to the Trust.
Cheddar Sevens , Mineboyz Mega Projectz - Level: Crystal , Recommended 7's , Brizzle goalz , Sadact’s Cheddar Legacy , 3 Star sport climbs below 7b within a 25 mile radius of Bristol , Bristol area road to 7b , 7As with stars near Bristol , Cheddar 7a+ Challenge , Bristol Sport Pyramid
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Deema Mozayen | 10 Aug |
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βeta: For the crux, I went from the jug rest into a nearby LH sidepull. This allowed me to reach RH into the big undercut. From here I could walk my feet over to the right (bridged against the polished block) and do a drop knee to reach my left hand over to the decent hold under 4th clip. | ||
Show beta
βeta: For the crux, I went from the jug rest into a nearby LH sidepull. This allowed me to reach RH into the big undercut. From here I could walk my feet over to the right (bridged against the polished block) and do a drop knee to reach my left hand over to the decent hold under 4th clip. |
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Lisa P | 12 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Got the sequence through the roof. Small Plate hold, two undercuts, big crossover left hand. Righthand high crimp/ledge, thumb on. Left hand shit, high feet. Do 3rd clip as low as possible. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Got the sequence through the roof. Small Plate hold, two undercuts, big crossover left hand. Righthand high crimp/ledge, thumb on. Left hand shit, high feet. Do 3rd clip as low as possible. |
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plant_based_tommo | 25 May, 2020 |
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βeta: Great route! Well worth doing. Consider using a long quickdraw on 3rd bolt | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Great route! Well worth doing. Consider using a long quickdraw on 3rd bolt |
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Grade: 7a+ ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)