UKC

Restricted Access

The north side of the Gorge is predominantly owned by the National Trust and mapped as Open Access land under the CRoW Act which give a right of access for climbers to use these crags all year. The Cheddar Gorge Access Map gives full details of climbing access throughout the Gorge.

The map references the latest guide to the Gorge - 'Cheddar Gorge Climbs' (M. Crocker, 2015), which has details of the popular crags on the north side and definitive details of restored routes on the south side. It is available from The Gorge Outdoors shop in Cheddar village, as well as other climbing and outdoor shops in the area.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Dogs should be kept under control on a lead at any crags on the north side of the Gorge.

The National Trust require any new bolting to be cleared with them first - please contact the BMC Access Team if you are considering any bolting work and so we can help in any approach to the Trust.

Tricky climbing leads past a large righthand layaway to good holds in a break. A bouldery, powerful sustained and extremely technical sequence leads to a very delicate rockover, shallow mono and, finally, a slap to salvation. Difficulties are sustained. Nothing easier than english 6a, nothing harder than english 6b.

Ticklists

Sadact’s Cheddar Legacy

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Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Other Side of Paradise

Grade: 7c ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)

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