The north side of the Gorge is predominantly owned by the National Trust and mapped as Open Access land under the CRoW Act which give a right of access for climbers to use these crags all year. The Cheddar Gorge Access Map gives full details of climbing access throughout the Gorge.
The map references the latest guide to the Gorge - 'Cheddar Gorge Climbs' (M. Crocker, 2015), which has details of the popular crags on the north side and definitive details of restored routes on the south side. It is available from The Gorge Outdoors shop in Cheddar village, as well as other climbing and outdoor shops in the area.
If you come across any fixed gear in Cheddar Gorge that you think needs attention, please use this form to make a report.
Reason: Nesting Birds
Dogs should be kept under control on a lead at any crags on the north side of the Gorge.
The National Trust require any new bolting to be cleared with them first - please contact the BMC Access Team if you are considering any bolting work and so we can help in any approach to the Trust.
Cheddar Eight's , South West 8's , UK 8a and up , Chepstow 7c - 8a+
User | Date | Notes | ||
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jwhitehouse | 5 Aug |
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βeta: Very fun lower section on the big juggy tufas. I used the shelf on Ya-Boo Yorkie for my right hand after the big undercut tufa as it was easily within reach, didn't take me off line and you can comfortably clip from it so just made sense to me to use it, but knowing the UK it's probably not in. Felt about 7c, but likely harder if you eliminate the shelf. Still worth trying either way as the climbing is very fun! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Very fun lower section on the big juggy tufas. I used the shelf on Ya-Boo Yorkie for my right hand after the big undercut tufa as it was easily within reach, didn't take me off line and you can comfortably clip from it so just made sense to me to use it, but knowing the UK it's probably not in. Felt about 7c, but likely harder if you eliminate the shelf. Still worth trying either way as the climbing is very fun! |
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ExBristolian | 26 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: If it's dry, get on it | βeta? | |
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βeta: If it's dry, get on it |
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Grade: 8a ***
(Cheddar Gorge North)