UKC

Restricted Access

The north side of the Gorge is predominantly owned by the National Trust and mapped as Open Access land under the CRoW Act which give a right of access for climbers to use these crags all year. The Cheddar Gorge Access Map gives full details of climbing access throughout the Gorge.

The map references the latest guide to the Gorge - 'Cheddar Gorge Climbs' (M. Crocker, 2015), which has details of the popular crags on the north side and definitive details of restored routes on the south side. It is available from The Gorge Outdoors shop in Cheddar village, as well as other climbing and outdoor shops in the area.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Dogs should be kept under control on a lead at any crags on the north side of the Gorge.

The National Trust require any new bolting to be cleared with them first - please contact the BMC Access Team if you are considering any bolting work and so we can help in any approach to the Trust.

Click here for RAD Access Notes
Last update: 07/05/2024  

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4m. On the main face of the Big Boulder below the Wave, start just left of The Groove (as for Man or Muppet). Head up until you grab the front of the shelf then follow this feature left. At the small overlap/weakness about halfway along, head upwards via a pinch feature at the back of the shelf. Once your hands are on the final lip, move slightly right to some decent edges in a diagonal seam on the slab and mantle using these.

S Walter 26/Jan/2022.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Scoots 26 Jan, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Likely a first ascent. Surprisingly good climbing, quite a few moves and a bit of highball exceitment thrown in. Pre-practiced on rope. Despite being high-ish, landing is reasonably level and can be managed ok with pads and spotters. https://vimeo.com/676587617 		βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Likely a first ascent. Surprisingly good climbing, quite a few moves and a bit of highball exceitment thrown in. Pre-practiced on rope. Despite being high-ish, landing is reasonably level and can be managed ok with pads and spotters. https://vimeo.com/676587617

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Route of Interest
James seconds before the cutloose on the first ascent of 'Bacon and Chips' at the Toll Road Crags.
Bacon and Chips

Grade: f7B ***
(Toll Road Crags)

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