Restricted Access

The north side of the Gorge is predominantly owned by the National Trust and mapped as Open Access land under the CRoW Act which give a right of access for climbers to use these crags all year. The Cheddar Gorge Access Map gives full details of climbing access throughout the Gorge.

The mapo references the latest guide to the Gorge - 'Cheddar Gorge Climbs' (M. Crocker, 2015), which has details of the popular crags on the north side and definitive details of restored routes on the south side. It is available from The Gorge Outdoors shop in Cheddar village, as well as other climbing and outdoor shops in the area.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Dogs should be kept under control on a lead at any crags on the north side of the Gorge.

The National Trust require any new bolting to be cleared with them first - please contact the BMC Access Team if you are considering any bolting work and so we can help in any approach to the Trust.

Up to E6 in the 2015 guide. Bridge up the chimney to a good tufa and the first thread. Pull out left to two threads close to each other and jugs in an awkward niche. Clip a fourth thread, pull out left and make a hard move up to fifth thread. Once standing on the fourth thread, slightly easier climbing with a bit of a run out if you don't place any gear (cracks and slots available) leads to a new lower off next to an old one.


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Logged Ascents

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High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 11
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Not Set
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Wishing Wall

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)

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