Restricted Access
The north side of the Gorge is predominantly owned by the National Trust and mapped as Open Access land under the CRoW Act which give a right of access for climbers to use these crags all year. The Cheddar Gorge Access Map gives full details of climbing access throughout the Gorge.
The mapo references the latest guide to the Gorge - 'Cheddar Gorge Climbs' (M. Crocker, 2015), which has details of the popular crags on the north side and definitive details of restored routes on the south side. It is available from The Gorge Outdoors shop in Cheddar village, as well as other climbing and outdoor shops in the area.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
Dogs should be kept under control on a lead at any crags on the north side of the Gorge.
The National Trust require any new bolting to be cleared with them first - please contact the BMC Access Team if you are considering any bolting work and so we can help in any approach to the Trust.
Ticklists
Classic UK F7s , West Country projects , 30 For My 30s , Sadact’s Cheddar Legacy , Bolts to clip in Cheddar , The post lockdown local list , Steep UK Sport Routes , 7Cs with stars near Bristol
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| chris85 | 19 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: So the crucial undercut hold came off today, feels pretty nails round that section now! | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: So the crucial undercut hold came off today, feels pretty nails round that section now! |
||||
| Oscar Popels | 27 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Warning - dangerously loose hold! The crucial undercut is now in a very bad state and may well smash your teeth out if you try and pull on it. Someone with some serious gluing skills might be able to stick it together but for the time being I would avoid this route completely. About a third of the undercut disintegrated when I tried to pull on it and it feels like the rest will go very soon. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Warning - dangerously loose hold! The crucial undercut is now in a very bad state and may well smash your teeth out if you try and pull on it. Someone with some serious gluing skills might be able to stick it together but for the time being I would avoid this route completely. About a third of the undercut disintegrated when I tried to pull on it and it feels like the rest will go very soon. |
||||
| robf321 | 6 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: The undercut block after the big move in the middle is now very loose, lots of rock fell out from behind it today, be very careful or take a sika gun! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The undercut block after the big move in the middle is now very loose, lots of rock fell out from behind it today, be very careful or take a sika gun! |
||||
| plant_based_tommo | 11 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: stand on the black shiney bits | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: stand on the black shiney bits |
||||
| Slater425 | 21 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Felt 7c to me, although I can imagine those around 6ft finding is very soft | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Felt 7c to me, although I can imagine those around 6ft finding is very soft |
||||
Logged Ascents
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
The Other Side of Paradise
Grade: 7c ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)