UKC

Restricted Access

The north side of the Gorge is predominantly owned by the National Trust and mapped as Open Access land under the CRoW Act which give a right of access for climbers to use these crags all year. The Cheddar Gorge Access Map gives full details of climbing access throughout the Gorge.

The map references the latest guide to the Gorge - 'Cheddar Gorge Climbs' (M. Crocker, 2015), which has details of the popular crags on the north side and definitive details of restored routes on the south side. It is available from The Gorge Outdoors shop in Cheddar village, as well as other climbing and outdoor shops in the area.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Dogs should be kept under control on a lead at any crags on the north side of the Gorge.

The National Trust require any new bolting to be cleared with them first - please contact the BMC Access Team if you are considering any bolting work and so we can help in any approach to the Trust.

Still 7c in the 2015 guide, despite many people saying 7b+.

Ticklists

Classic UK F7s , West Country projects , 30 For My 30s , Sadact’s Cheddar Legacy , Bolts to clip in Cheddar , The post lockdown local list , Steep UK Sport Routes , 7Cs with stars near Bristol

Feedback

User Date Notes
chris85 19 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: So the crucial undercut hold came off today, feels pretty nails round that section now!
Show beta
βeta: So the crucial undercut hold came off today, feels pretty nails round that section now!
Oscar Popels 27 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Warning - dangerously loose hold! The crucial undercut is now in a very bad state and may well smash your teeth out if you try and pull on it. Someone with some serious gluing skills might be able to stick it together but for the time being I would avoid this route completely. About a third of the undercut disintegrated when I tried to pull on it and it feels like the rest will go very soon.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Warning - dangerously loose hold! The crucial undercut is now in a very bad state and may well smash your teeth out if you try and pull on it. Someone with some serious gluing skills might be able to stick it together but for the time being I would avoid this route completely. About a third of the undercut disintegrated when I tried to pull on it and it feels like the rest will go very soon.
robf321 6 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The undercut block after the big move in the middle is now very loose, lots of rock fell out from behind it today, be very careful or take a sika gun!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The undercut block after the big move in the middle is now very loose, lots of rock fell out from behind it today, be very careful or take a sika gun!
plant_based_tommo 11 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: stand on the black shiney bits
Show beta
βeta: stand on the black shiney bits
Slater425 21 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Felt 7c to me, although I can imagine those around 6ft finding is very soft
Show beta
βeta: Felt 7c to me, although I can imagine those around 6ft finding is very soft

Logged Ascents

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Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 62
Votes cast 60
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Other Side of Paradise

Grade: 7c ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)

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