UKC

First pitch to Doc Martins.
The only sport pitch on the lower half of the Warlord Wall.
Belay on long sling / wires below the first bolt.
Climb the steep lower section, moving right at about 7m and continue to a rest at the foot of a smooth slabby section. Climb the slab and pull into a slim groove. Climb the groove to the main break and move left to a belay / abseil station.

Ticklists

The road to paradise lost , Cheddar 7a Challenge , 7As with stars near Bristol

Feedback

User Date Notes
ericinbristol 16 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome route. Get on it! We found it best to approach up Shoot Gully, do the route then exit to the top up Shoot Gully (stunning view all the way to Glastonbory Tor etc) and walk back round and down: much more pleasant than descending Shoot Gully. As for the route itself, the rock is generally clean and sound, the moves great, the exposure fantastic (a Chinook helicopter flew below us!) and the bolting spaced but okay. Be.ay with a sling round a handy pinnacle at waist height. The LO (two rings) is hidden as it is bolted into the horizontal ledge. We were concerned that threading the rings would jam the rope, so we threaded an in situ krab on one ring and a in situ krab (glued/stuck shut) on a rope thread above the LO: the angles made the rope pull okay. Maybe take a leaver krab in case the one on the ring is taken. 3 stars. Best 7a in Cheddar, when all elements (including wild exposure) taken into account).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome route. Get on it! We found it best to approach up Shoot Gully, do the route then exit to the top up Shoot Gully (stunning view all the way to Glastonbory Tor etc) and walk back round and down: much more pleasant than descending Shoot Gully. As for the route itself, the rock is generally clean and sound, the moves great, the exposure fantastic (a Chinook helicopter flew below us!) and the bolting spaced but okay. Be.ay with a sling round a handy pinnacle at waist height. The LO (two rings) is hidden as it is bolted into the horizontal ledge. We were concerned that threading the rings would jam the rope, so we threaded an in situ krab on one ring and a in situ krab (glued/stuck shut) on a rope thread above the LO: the angles made the rope pull okay. Maybe take a leaver krab in case the one on the ring is taken. 3 stars. Best 7a in Cheddar, when all elements (including wild exposure) taken into account).

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Shakin' Like a Leaf

Grade: 7a ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)

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