UKC

105m, 5 pitches. WW... as in the MCrocker guide.. means it is restricted and is a Winter Route, so it is only permitted from Oct 1st through to 15th March, and is out of bounds at all other times!

6c(6b aid), 5+, 6b, -, 5+
(FOURTH BOLT ON P3 IS NOW REPLACED (16/10/2015))
One of the longest sport routes in the UK. Some think it classic, others think it too vegetated and scrappy for that status. P1 is the crux: the move with a painful pocket can be bypassed using an aid bolt. An exposed easier 5+ P2 then leads to the 6b corner crack of P3: this is awkward and much harder than it looks. A short grassy walk (P4 -) brings you to a gentle buttress and the final 5+ pitch: this is by far the best pitch on the route. Climb past the three ring bolts then another bolt: belay using a large square block.
Abseil descent of the route is not allowed. Top out. The Martin Crocker guidebook recommends that you 'Scramble down Shoot Gully': this is potentially lethal as it is so loose. If you go this way, you will probably end up abseiling off trees which have notices pinned on them saying that some of the trees are loose. The alternatives are to walk and then scramble easily to the Space Tourist ab station (not easy to find) or to walk further towards Cheddar and descend Sloworm Gully (the best way down).

Access: Some find the guide confusing. Approach from the left (Long Wall) looking towards the crag. Approaching from sunset buttress involves climbing (damaging) a goat fence and there's a good chance of slipping to your death!

D.P Jenkin, G.A Jenkin Mar/2006.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Cheddar Intermediate , The Longest Sport Routes in the UK , Cheddar Road To 7a Ruins , The Cheddar Nose , Sadact’s Cheddar Legacy , 3 Star sport climbs below 7b within a 25 mile radius of Bristol , All multi-pitch sport routes (England and Wales) , 6Cs with stars near Bristol

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