UKC

120m, 5 pitches. Start 15m left of Coronation Street, below a break in the overhang.

1 - 5b 25m Climb up and to the right to join the groove (loose block). Move up the grove past a number of pegs until its possible to swing out right on to the rib, move up and belay in the corner.

2 - 5a 25m Climb the corner and then the slab above to mantelshelf onto the ivy ledge.

3 - 5c 25m Go up the wall behind the belay and swing right over the overhang to mantel onto the grassy ledge. Move up the finger crack on you right above until a move leftwards leads to a peg belay under the main break.

4 - 5c 25m Traverse left to the base of the corner, move up with tricky moves and slightly right, until its possible to swing right on to a ledge and belay below the final corner.

5 - 5a 20m Follow the crack to just before the top, then bear left to top out.

P Littlejohn, M Chambers 1970.

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E3 ticklist , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , So you think your an Avon Climber? , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Birds

Feedback

User Date Notes
Xavierpercy 18 Jan Show βeta
βeta: The belay at the end of pitch 3 seemed ok Really good rock 4 at chest height plus a good larger nut up to the left in addition to the in-situ stuff.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The belay at the end of pitch 3 seemed ok Really good rock 4 at chest height plus a good larger nut up to the left in addition to the in-situ stuff.
Tall Oak 22 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Led P1 and P2 no issues. Seconded P3 no issues. Seconded P4 and fell on crux. Repeated and up. Seconded P5 no issues. Only tired. Thanks to the folks who cleared much of the vegetation. The 'ivy pitch' was not as bad as perhaps depicted. Actually, for me anyways, was fun. Belay at end of P2 is backed up with high nuts and actually safe. The only bolt (presume ascensionist) is next to useless. Belay at end of P3 is pretty dire. Potential for cams (larger size) up higher in the break. Tat in bolts. And red nut wedged at waist height. Defo combine P4/5 together if have the stamina.
Show beta
βeta: Led P1 and P2 no issues. Seconded P3 no issues. Seconded P4 and fell on crux. Repeated and up. Seconded P5 no issues. Only tired. Thanks to the folks who cleared much of the vegetation. The 'ivy pitch' was not as bad as perhaps depicted. Actually, for me anyways, was fun. Belay at end of P2 is backed up with high nuts and actually safe. The only bolt (presume ascensionist) is next to useless. Belay at end of P3 is pretty dire. Potential for cams (larger size) up higher in the break. Tat in bolts. And red nut wedged at waist height. Defo combine P4/5 together if have the stamina.
fammer 9 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: In situ belay at top of p3 is grim, hard to adequately back up the pegs. I continued the traverse for another 5m or so and belayed at the base of the groove - a little uncomfortable but not too bad. Veg not too bad, get on it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: In situ belay at top of p3 is grim, hard to adequately back up the pegs. I continued the traverse for another 5m or so and belayed at the base of the groove - a little uncomfortable but not too bad. Veg not too bad, get on it!

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High E4
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Split Rock (Milton Hill Quarry))

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