UKC

Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
  • Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

 

Rockfax Description
A forgotten route. The upper section has been bolted on the previous route - maybe the lower wall will be one day. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A Forgotten route that has been virtually retro bolted although its line up the lower wall may have drifted in from Fey.

FA. Richard Davies 1989.

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Route of Interest
The Crypt Trip

Grade: E6 6c ***
(Stanage North)

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