Restricted Access
Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:
- No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
- No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
- Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
- Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance.
- Do not remove large swathes of ivy.
Rockfax Description
Start as for Taylor Made to the rest in the groove. Make a long span out right to a poor crimp, then leap to the large glued jug. Gaining the base of the large flake is not so easy either. Not very popular and has lost a crucial crimp. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start as for Taylor Made to the rest in the groove. Make a long span out right to a poor crimp then leap to the large glued jug. Gaining the base of the large flake is not so easy either.
FA. Malcom Taylor 1989. Formerly the aid route 'The Groove'..
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Chee Dale Lower
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The Ogre
Grade: 8a ***
(Chee Dale Lower)