UKC

Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
  • Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

 

Rockfax Description
Climb to the top of the pedestal from its right-hand side. Step right and continue up the tricky crack before stepping right again to head up some grooves. Abseil off, or do the top pitch which tackles the wall above via two grooves at 4c. © Rockfax

FA. P.Nunn, O.Woolcock (aid) 16.2.65, FFA. Unknown 16/Feb/1965.

Ticklists

Peak Rock/10/White Life , Low grade quality Cheedale Trad , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , The Festival Of Shite

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High 5c
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Arête

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Tintwistle Knarr)

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