Restricted Access
Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:
- No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
- No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
- Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
- Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance.
- Do not remove large swathes of ivy.
Rockfax Description
An excellent route, more independent than it looks. Climb the wall 2m right of Bored... on tiny holds, pockets and undercuts to join and finish the original Bored... Choosing which move is the crux proves difficult as they're all desperate. Very sequency and reachy in places, but well worth the effort. © Rockfax
FA. Dave Cross, Carl Dawson 1997.
Ticklists
Peak limestone north graded list - sport , UK 8a and up
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| James Oswald | 16 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Semi crucial intermediate broke in the middle of the crux, making it harder. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Semi crucial intermediate broke in the middle of the crux, making it harder. |
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| Wft | 6 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: There are two different sequences moving past the second bolt. One going straight up via a shiny crimp in the scoop and another looping left via undercuts into the jugs of the adjacent route, 'Bored of the Lies'. Whilst I can't comment on any change in difficulty, this left sequence does seem to detract from the sustained nature of the climbing; to start shaking-out on another route that is. It's a tight line already, better to keep it independent and maintain quality. This might seem trivial but I love this stuff. Oujiboard or Oujibored? ;- | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: There are two different sequences moving past the second bolt. One going straight up via a shiny crimp in the scoop and another looping left via undercuts into the jugs of the adjacent route, 'Bored of the Lies'. Whilst I can't comment on any change in difficulty, this left sequence does seem to detract from the sustained nature of the climbing; to start shaking-out on another route that is. It's a tight line already, better to keep it independent and maintain quality. This might seem trivial but I love this stuff. Oujiboard or Oujibored? ;- |
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| remus | 2 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pretty damp at the top. Crimps were a tiny bit moist, undercuts were damp and top wall was damp. Mostly driable (thanks dude who went up before us!) but definitely not primo. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Pretty damp at the top. Crimps were a tiny bit moist, undercuts were damp and top wall was damp. Mostly driable (thanks dude who went up before us!) but definitely not primo. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Chee Dale Lower
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Unleashing the Wild Physique
Grade: 8a ***
(Chee Dale Lower)