Restricted Access
Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:
- No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
- No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
- Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
- Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance.
- Do not remove large swathes of ivy.
Rockfax Description
The best line here following the right-to-left diagonal through the bulges. The climbing is powerful through these then the upper wall proves less steep, but still pumpy. © Rockfax
FA. John Hart 1990.
Ticklists
Classic Hard Peak Limestone , Peak District Limestone top 50 sport up to 8a+ , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , World Graded List , Peak limestone north graded list - sport , UK 8a and up , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Power of Climbing
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Chee Dale Lower
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Rumble in the Jungle
Grade: 8a+ ***
(Water-cum-Jolly)