10m.
Rockfax Description
Start from the first stepping stone and climb to good holds by the first bolt. Make a desperate slopey pull then attempt to gain holds on the lip. Dyno for a pinch, then move up to the lower-off. Usually dirty. © Rockfax
FA. Keith Sharples 1995.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Haydn Jones | 5 Jul, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: 3rd ascent maybe after kieth and Mike Lea The only other person I know that has defo done it was Mike Lea and his ascent was back just after I did the FA. Mike was very competitive at the time and although he was. Limbing better than I was - by some distance he was determined to repeat it, to donit easily and then down grade it down to 8a! Well, that not quite what happened. Yes, he repeated it - possibly even in a day. However he found it nails and in repeating it he hurt his back quite badly doing the jump. So much so that he had to admit it was hard and way too hard for 8a so it stayed at 8a+. Fast forward a few year and zippy put the lower bolt to protect the left hand traverse into forehead. After that a few climbers tried my route again (Neil mawson, ru Davies included) and they couldn't do it either and assumed it had lost holds so was impossible. I told them it was a big dyno and everyone promptly gave up on it!! I did it about the time I was doing all the other hard 8a+ so routes like nemesis, Devonshire arms kumquat etc and as a numbernof my FA had been downgraded I opted for 8a+ and thought well go on then downgrade that f****r!! They didn't! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: 3rd ascent maybe after kieth and Mike Lea The only other person I know that has defo done it was Mike Lea and his ascent was back just after I did the FA. Mike was very competitive at the time and although he was. Limbing better than I was - by some distance he was determined to repeat it, to donit easily and then down grade it down to 8a! Well, that not quite what happened. Yes, he repeated it - possibly even in a day. However he found it nails and in repeating it he hurt his back quite badly doing the jump. So much so that he had to admit it was hard and way too hard for 8a so it stayed at 8a+. Fast forward a few year and zippy put the lower bolt to protect the left hand traverse into forehead. After that a few climbers tried my route again (Neil mawson, ru Davies included) and they couldn't do it either and assumed it had lost holds so was impossible. I told them it was a big dyno and everyone promptly gave up on it!! I did it about the time I was doing all the other hard 8a+ so routes like nemesis, Devonshire arms kumquat etc and as a numbernof my FA had been downgraded I opted for 8a+ and thought well go on then downgrade that f****r!! They didn't! |
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Route of Interest
Pistol Fingers
Grade: 8a+ ***
(Long Tor Quarry)