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Rockfax Description
An outstanding route marking a step forward in hard limestone climbing. It had a controversial history intitally around the validity of the first ascent and later as it gained and lost bolts. It has now settled down at a four-bolt sport route providing that you pre-clip the first bolt with a stick clip - award yourself a top end E6 without this. The start is harder than it used to be because holds have gone. © Rockfax

FA. R.Fawcett 5.82. It was originally climbed with old-style yo-yo techniques. A visiting Frenchman Jean-Pierre Bouvier red-pointed the route and renamed it Gandalf Le Magicien claiming he had made the first real ascent. Since then the route has twice gai May/1982.

Ticklists

Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, World Graded List, Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Definitive *** Peak Lime, James' Summer Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

28 users have logged this
28 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Arch Enemies

Grade: 7c+ ***
(Dovedale)