UKC

Rockfax Description
An outstanding route marking a step forward in hard limestone climbing. It had a controversial history intitally around the validity of the first ascent and later as it gained and lost bolts. It has now settled down at a four-bolt sport route providing that you pre-clip the first bolt with a stick clip - award yourself a top end E6 without this. The start is harder than it used to be because holds have gone. © Rockfax

FA. R.Fawcett 5.82. It was originally climbed with old-style yo-yo techniques. A visiting Frenchman Jean-Pierre Bouvier red-pointed the route and renamed it Gandalf Le Magicien claiming he had made the first real ascent. Since then the route has twice gai May/1982.

Ticklists

Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50, World Graded List, Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Definitive *** Peak Lime, James' Summer Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
remus 22 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: 3.6m clipstick + a tall-ish friend was long enough to clip the first bolt.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 3.6m clipstick + a tall-ish friend was long enough to clip the first bolt.

Logged Ascents

39 users have logged this
30 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Arch Enemies

Grade: 7c+ ***
(Dovedale)
Loading Notifications...