UKC

16m.

Rockfax Description
Great moves on good rock although it can get dirty. Harder than it used to be due to significant hold loss on the traverse. Climb the groove via long pulls to the small roof. Move up left and traverse left to enter a scoop nervously. Traverse the unhelpful break rightwards to powerful moves up to gain the steep flake crack. Heave over to easier ground and a blocky finish. A direct link between the two roofs is slightly harder and reachy (7b). © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
June 2021 - Regraded 7a+ after loss of big undercut on the traverse back right. New version added to maintain 7a ticks on old version. Hold loss was around 2018 or so.

FA. C.Gore, Dominic Lee Jun/1982.

Ticklists

Peak limestone north graded list - sport , The Festival Of Shite , Peak sport for mortals

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User Date Notes
193 12 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed this both last year and this , it is not 7b ,
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbed this both last year and this , it is not 7b ,
Alan James - UKC and UKH 14 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Cleaned and brushed but sadly the loss of a big key block in the roof has added a desperate move to the traverse back right. Have changed the grade to 7b but that is a bit of a guess. Will see what it levels out at now.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Cleaned and brushed but sadly the loss of a big key block in the roof has added a desperate move to the traverse back right. Have changed the grade to 7b but that is a bit of a guess. Will see what it levels out at now.
gratton william 9 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: This route has a very loose big block at the top of the climb marked with a cross Also looks like it’s had holds pulled off at some point seemed harder then grade
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route has a very loose big block at the top of the climb marked with a cross Also looks like it’s had holds pulled off at some point seemed harder then grade
Boy 10 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The top-out now requires passing a dead tree which is no longer holding loads of loose blocks together. All in all the route is in need of a bloody good spring clean!
Show beta
βeta: The top-out now requires passing a dead tree which is no longer holding loads of loose blocks together. All in all the route is in need of a bloody good spring clean!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 27
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ember to Inferno

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Blue Lagoon Quarry)

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