UKC

85m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superbly exposed trip through unbelievable territory at the grade. The grade reflects the overall sustained nature of the route rather than the protection, which is more than adequate. There are a number of variations, including an extended start from over on the left and an independent finish, but none are as good as this particular combination.
1) 4c, 25m. Climb all of The Stalk to its belay.
2) 4c, 15m. Move up and right across a grassy and slightly loose wall to belay above the roof of The Big Plumb.
3) 5a, 25m. A mega-pitch which needs a confident second. Drop down and make a wild hand-traverse of the break to a spike on Sirplum, and a hanging belay. There is plenty of fixed gear.
4) 5a, 20m. Finish up Sirplum. Originally it finished up the shallow groove further to the right - this is grassy nowadays. © Rockfax

FA. Jeff Morgan, Bob Toogood 1968 FA. (Sarin) Paul Nunn, Trevor Briggs 1966.

Ticklists

Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, Peak Rock/10/White Life, Low grade quality Cheedale Trad, Weird and Wonderful

Feedback

User Date Notes
orangesmartie61 26 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Climbed Stalk to the belay but bailed after scoping the next pitch. Deemed unjustifiable at the grade due to loose ivy, loose rock and general vegetation.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbed Stalk to the belay but bailed after scoping the next pitch. Deemed unjustifiable at the grade due to loose ivy, loose rock and general vegetation.
shane ohly 21 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic climbing, brilliant route. Intimidating for E1. 3rd pitch truely mega. 4th pitch worth 5b I reckon.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic climbing, brilliant route. Intimidating for E1. 3rd pitch truely mega. 4th pitch worth 5b I reckon.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 22
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Ground Up
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

Dark Continent

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Stanage Popular)
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