UKC

Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
  • Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.

Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.

Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.

85m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superbly exposed trip through unbelievable territory at the grade. The grade reflects the overall sustained nature of the route rather than the protection, which is more than adequate. There are a number of variations, including an extended start from over on the left and an independent finish, but none are as good as this particular combination.
1) 4c, 25m. Climb all of The Stalk to its belay.
2) 4c, 15m. Move up and right across a grassy and slightly loose wall to belay above the roof of The Big Plumb.
3) 5a, 25m. A mega-pitch which needs a confident second. Drop down and make a wild hand-traverse of the break to a spike on Sirplum, and a hanging belay. There is plenty of fixed gear.
4) 5a, 20m. Finish up Sirplum. Originally it finished up the shallow groove further to the right - this is grassy nowadays. © Rockfax

FA. Jeff Morgan, Bob Toogood 1968 FA. (Sarin) Paul Nunn, Trevor Briggs 1966.

Ticklists

Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2 , Peak Rock/10/White Life , Low grade quality Cheedale Trad , Weird and Wonderful , Lime trad for hobbyists , Peak Traverses

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jhanshaw 9 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: 2nd link pitch is a death trap. Thank god for the bolted anchors. Went too high so had to downclimb into the break under roof. From there, spectacular! Could benefit from a bolted lower off at the top of Sirplum groove. Many loose blocks above and ropes get snagged every time!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 2nd link pitch is a death trap. Thank god for the bolted anchors. Went too high so had to downclimb into the break under roof. From there, spectacular! Could benefit from a bolted lower off at the top of Sirplum groove. Many loose blocks above and ropes get snagged every time!
orangesmartie61 26 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed Stalk to the belay but bailed after scoping the next pitch. Deemed unjustifiable at the grade due to loose ivy, loose rock and general vegetation.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbed Stalk to the belay but bailed after scoping the next pitch. Deemed unjustifiable at the grade due to loose ivy, loose rock and general vegetation.
shane ohly 21 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic climbing, brilliant route. Intimidating for E1. 3rd pitch truely mega. 4th pitch worth 5b I reckon.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic climbing, brilliant route. Intimidating for E1. 3rd pitch truely mega. 4th pitch worth 5b I reckon.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Chee Dale Upper

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 24
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Hugo de Vries

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Turningstone Edge)

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