Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:
Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.
Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.
Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.
Rockfax Description
Excellent - probably the best of its grade on the wall. Climb the bulge right of High Society with difficulty at the start - clip-stick handy. Continue more easily to the break, above which a final test of your fitness awaits. Finish at good holds above the belay. © Rockfax
FA. Chris Hardy 1989.
Classy Peak Lime 7a to 7b+ , Peak Sport 3 Star Routes 6c+-7c+ , World Graded List , Peak limestone north graded list - sport , Peak sport , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Lime Time , Hardy Routes , Peak sport for mortals , Lime trad for hobbyists
User | Date | Notes | ||
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CLH387 | 18 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: A few people have commented that the start needs an extra bolt.. it’s my route so feel free to add an extra one if necessary. Re the comments about the starting jug is now missing… there never was one! Hardest bit of the route was always the first 20 feet | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A few people have commented that the start needs an extra bolt.. it’s my route so feel free to add an extra one if necessary. Re the comments about the starting jug is now missing… there never was one! Hardest bit of the route was always the first 20 feet |
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LBrown | 23 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Finishing jug no longer hanging in there. New sequence seems only marginally harder and the new holds smaller but helpful. The rock revealed underneath the jug looks solid and could take a bolt and, possibly, chains, if they were not deemed too low and were thought preferable to the current set up with the tree. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Finishing jug no longer hanging in there. New sequence seems only marginally harder and the new holds smaller but helpful. The rock revealed underneath the jug looks solid and could take a bolt and, possibly, chains, if they were not deemed too low and were thought preferable to the current set up with the tree. |
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stp | 14 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: A long quickdraw on the second bolt prevents the rope chafing in the event of a fall. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A long quickdraw on the second bolt prevents the rope chafing in the event of a fall. |
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dominic lee | 3 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Finishing jug still hanging in there.. not as fragile as it looks. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Finishing jug still hanging in there.. not as fragile as it looks. |
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Mark Lloyd | 5 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: The starting jug has now gone, and the top one has a limited lifetime. p.s it wasn't me. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The starting jug has now gone, and the top one has a limited lifetime. p.s it wasn't me. |
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mark s | 26 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: im tall and i had to slap for it. 3 star route,great climbing | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: im tall and i had to slap for it. 3 star route,great climbing |
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Grade: 7a+ ***
(Chee Dale Lower)