UKC

Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
  • Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.

Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.

Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.

15m.

Rockfax Description
Quality climbing up the wall just to the right. Climb the wall to the break and stand in it. Step right then make hard pulls to a good hold. Climb to a down-pointing spike then move left to another good hold. Move back up right to the belay at the break. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Has undergone critical maintenance and now includes a replica Crux hold, making it worthwhile once more and not ridiculously unbalanced.

FA. Chris Wright 1996.

Ticklists

Peak limestone north graded list - sport , Business 2022 / 2023

Feedback

User Date Notes
craig d 30 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Possibly no longer climable as small razor flake pulled off yesterday. With the flake the route felt like 7C+, without it who knows. There is a tiny (and I mean TINY!!) two finger crimp which you can reach with your left hand off the undercuts, and it could be possible to rock up to the big hold by the 3rd bolt. Good climbing on the upper wall.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Possibly no longer climable as small razor flake pulled off yesterday. With the flake the route felt like 7C+, without it who knows. There is a tiny (and I mean TINY!!) two finger crimp which you can reach with your left hand off the undercuts, and it could be possible to rock up to the big hold by the 3rd bolt. Good climbing on the upper wall.

Logged Ascents

63 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Chee Dale Upper

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Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Sea is a Brown Paper Bag

Grade: 7b+ ***
(Chee Dale Upper)

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