Rockfax Description
This product of an earlier age now appears to have an odd line, though there is a logic to it; worth doing. The lower wall is sustained to a semi-rest at a junction with Big Zipper, finish up this. The original finish traversed right and dropped down to what is now Ouijaboard. © Rockfax

FA. Mark Pretty 1986

Ticklists: Classy Peak Lime 7a to 7b+, Peak Sport 3 Star Routes 6c+-7c+, Peak limestone north graded list - sport.

Jonny Nick 30/Aug/17 Lead
Jonny Nick 27/Aug/17 Lead dog
MathewWright1998 08/Aug/17 Lead β
Nick Sherring 01/Aug/17 Lead dog

just working moves, lower wall is really good

Andy Moles 31/Jul/17 Lead

Fell off four times at the chain before successful RP, pretty silly

with Ferdia
ferdia 30/Jul/17 Lead RP

Not too bad. Really good. First RP

ferdia 28/Jul/17 Lead dog
Matt Broadhurst 25/Jul/17 Lead
with Tom D
FreddieSmith 19/Jul/17 Lead RP
Jan Masat 18/Jul/17 Lead RP
Hidden 16/Jul/17 Lead RP
Hannes B 01/Jun/17 Lead RP
with Charlie, Nick
Steve Hickie 10/May/17 Lead rpt
with John cooper
Aaron.Clifford ?/Mar/17 Lead RP
with Gaz Parry
dan gibson 15/Oct/16 Lead RP
with Katerina petkova
penny.orr 21/Aug/16 Lead RP


with Duncy, Smooth Rob
Duncan Campbell 20/Aug/16 Lead RP

didn't think it would go after an impromptu pub session last night, but managed it probably 4th RP. Find the lower crux very reachy and the top is obviously very pumpy!

Teappleby 19/Aug/16 Lead dog

The moves on this were fine. But I still can't do the big zipper moves when at all boxed, I find it soooo hard!!

with Matt lyons , Alex McCann
Duncan Campbell 17/Aug/16 Lead dog

Went for a flash go but that ended at the technical crux below the third bolt. Dogged it to top then had a burn and fell off at same point worked it out a bit better then fell off fumbling the move to the undercut out right. Think with more time than an evening sesh/not belaying someone whilst they work a route and it would have gone down. great social scenes anyway!

Chris_barr 14/Aug/16 Lead rpt

Didn't realise I'd already done this.

with Theo
Wood for Trees 05/Aug/16 Lead RP

Bored of the Tries

Ram MkiV 05/Aug/16 Lead RP

only just. perilously close to a horrible to contemplate burn off. Top route.

with Guy
penny.orr 03/Aug/16 Lead dog
Joe Lawson 03/Aug/16 Lead RP

Big Zipper finish - 2nd go dropped last move on flash

Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 02/Aug/16 Lead RP

Great route, technical and then tiring.

LBrown 02/Aug/16 Lead dog

Bored of the Zipper. Cleaned up a bit then slipped off near the finish on the RP.

Hidden ??/2016 -
Apharri ??/2016 Lead
Hidden 12/Sep/15 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Sep/15 Lead RP
James Oswald 09/Sep/15 Lead RP

3rd session after falling off it with cold hands on the 2nd. Ace route, really hard crux.

with Nick Duboust
Ash Sayers ?/Sep/15 Lead RP
eel 28/Aug/15 Lead RP
with Keith S
mic_b 21/Aug/15 Lead RP
with Chris
Hidden 19/Aug/15 Lead
Jake Young 06/Aug/15 Lead RP

tick :D

benkelsey 05/Aug/15 Lead RP

First RP with new (sensible) beta through crux, felt steady. thanks Jamie!

with Shaun Humphreys
Dave Bond 04/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with mike
Jack Delaney 03/Aug/15 Lead dog
with Alice Walton, FreddieSmith
jamesgodwin64 30/Jul/15 Lead RP
with John Cooper
Hidden 30/Jul/15 Lead RP
Hidden 30/Jul/15 Lead RP
Hidden 28/Jul/15 Lead dnf
benkelsey 24/Jul/15 Lead dog

Can't do the middle move, not sure how the top would go either, as it feels hard enough after the easier first section of the big zipper.

with Shaun Humphreys
shaunhumphreys 24/Jul/15 Lead RP

3rd go! have tried big zipper before!

benkelsey 22/Jul/15 Lead dog

50 50 catching a throw move in the middle, but should go clean if enough in the tank for the big zipper finish.

amccann 22/Jul/15 Lead RP

Pretty happy to get this in one session.

Luke Dawson 20/Jul/15 Lead O/S
quiffhanger 19/Jul/15 Lead RP

Great route. Fell off the very last move due to useless use of feet on the flash attempt the day before.

with Johaness, Rachel
MichaelGallimore 19/Jul/15 Lead dnf

Climbed to the roof crux and felt fresh but still dropped the move . Should go next time

with jon lawson
drcorbasisgod 08/Jul/15 Lead RP
Dave Mayes 04/Jul/15 Lead RP

1st RP.

with Emily
will smith11 30/Jun/15 Lead RP
Nick Sillem ??/2015 Lead RP
stp ??/2015 -
dannyboy83 17/Oct/14 Lead RP
Tophe 17/Oct/14 Lead β
with Dan
Hidden 13/Sep/14 Lead RP
TobyA 30/Aug/14 TR dnf

Just finding out what 7b+ feels like between T's redpoint attempts. Didn't get far but great moves.

with TonyB
Stig 15/Aug/14 Lead RP

First go with clips in. Quality.

with Ethan
Stig 09/Aug/14 Lead dog
with Greg
Charlie Noakes 07/Aug/14 Lead RP

First of the grade, 3rd RP, second session.

Stig 04/Aug/14 TR dog
with Wil
innes 03/Aug/14 Lead β
with Ruth
C coldwell-storry 03/Aug/14 Lead β
with Nic
Hidden 03/Aug/14 Lead
Rachel Slater 02/Aug/14 Lead RP

Fell off at the chains on a chalky non-hold on the first RP!

with Anna Gilyeat
Wil Treasure 31/Jul/14 Lead RP
Haydn Jones 31/Jul/14 Lead β
Hidden 29/Jul/14 Lead dog
Hidden 24/Jul/14 Lead β
Hidden 22/Jul/14 Lead dog
NDD 15/Jul/14 Lead
with toby
Ian Broome 15/Jul/14 Lead RP

Fell off at chains the other day. Quit

Hidden 12/Jul/14 TR dog
highrepute 08/Jul/14 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Jul/14 Lead RP
Ethan 05/Jul/14 Lead β
with Gus
nathanlee 05/Jul/14 Lead RP

2nd go. Nice top bit.

with Gus Hudgins
w.pettet-smith ?/Jul/14 Lead

First red point. Lovely lower wall, good climbing al the way

nicolat ?/Jul/14 Lead RP
with James Mitchell
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2014 Lead RP
Gus 20/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 11/Jul/13 Lead RP
jfreeman 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with James Buckley, George Hartley
Hidden 27/Jun/13 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Jun/13 Lead dog
Hidden 13/May/13 Lead dog
mark20 13/May/13 Lead RP

Bored of The Zipper

Hidden 06/May/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead RP
Toby Dunn ??/2013 -
nicolat ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 17/Oct/11 Lead dog
Hidden 13/Oct/11 TR dog
Si dH 04/Oct/11 Lead RP

Yes!! Got this 2nd attempt tonight just as it went dark, following 4 attempts on Sunday and after working it the week before. All 5 of the failed attempts ended on the last two moves up to the belay. So glad to clip in at the top! Big Zipper finish.

with Chris Foster
Dan Jenkin 01/Oct/11 Lead RP

tried this back in may...fired it off 1st go 2day, nice!

with Theo, Chris Lockyer, Chris Barr
Hidden 01/Oct/11 Lead RP
Hidden 27/Sep/11 Lead RP
Hidden 04/Sep/11 Lead RP
miastacey ?/Aug/11 Lead RP

Done with big Zipper finish.

with Ben Heason, Katherine Sellers, Bob Smith
derico 30/Jul/11 Lead RP

Big Zipper finish, love this route! Fall on first go almost as much fun as the send.

with Adam & Michelle
Chi Cheng 11/Jul/11 Lead dog

7b: big zipper finish

with Mike Borg-Costanzi
Hidden 04/Jul/11 Lead dog
Rob Grant 22/Jun/11 -
with sophie
tuftynick 21/Jun/11 Lead RP
with ben winston
J.Wells 21/Jun/11 Lead RP
with Jon Imong
PeteH 20/Jun/11 Lead dog
with Ben Heason
Jordan B 20/Jun/11 Lead O/S

7b finish

with Arran
Stefan Gallagher 16/Jun/11 Lead RP

Big Zipper finish

gregoritos 12/Jun/11 Lead rpt
alaan 30/May/11 Lead dog

Fell from the last hold, too pumped to clip. Good climbing in the lower-half!

with Grant
Ian Broome 24/May/11 Lead dog
Hidden 24/May/11 Lead RP
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead β
steve_yo ?/Apr/11 Lead
uptown 10/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Boy
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead RP
Hidden 28/Jul/10 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Jul/10 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Jul/10 Lead RP
Hidden 10/Jul/10 TR dog
skygodley 05/Jul/10 Lead RP

My girlfriend thought the route was as good as Sautanz but I'm not so sure!

with SarahM
gregoritos 24/Jun/10 Lead RP
ukb & bmc shark 21/Jun/10 Lead
Brown 18/Jun/10 Lead RP

With original right hand finish.

with Lilifa
Hidden 08/Jun/10 Lead RP
Andrew Barker 04/Jun/10 Lead RP

Cleaned and climbed the original finish which has superb moves and feels surprisingly logical despite being an eliminate.

with Chris Taylor
TomPR ?/Jun/10 Lead
Gus 31/May/10 Lead RP
Dave Turnbull, BMC 30/May/10 Lead RP

Toped it no falls first route of the day then led 1st go.

with John Hart
bigie bob 28/May/10 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 27/May/10 Lead dog

Grabed lower-off staring at the belay on 3rd rp, bummer

with Andy Cave
jondude 25/May/10 Lead O/S
with Pete Clark
Hidden 23/May/10 Lead β
Hidden 01/Jan/10 -
Fraser13 ??/2010 Lead RP
Simon Davis ??/2010 -
with Bourney, Dave Mclaughlin
Rich Kirby ?/Aug/06 Lead RP

First RP.

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ?/Aug/06 2nd
nige 04/Jul/06 Lead
with craig smith
lx ?/Jul/06 Lead

7b finish

robyn1 ??/2006 -
Boy ??/2006 -
mgeek ??/2006 Lead RP
with Tom Bolger
Hidden User 56 ?/Aug/05 Lead RP
with Ian Patterson
dominic lee 16/Jul/05 Lead RP
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Henners 01/Sep/03 Lead RP
with Alan Cassidy
climber34neil ??/2003 -
Hidden ??/2003 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Jul/01 Lead β
kristian ??/2000 Lead O/S
craig d ??/2000 -
Seb Grieve ??/2000 -
Hidden 27/Sep/97 Lead RP
crossleysm ??/1996 Lead RP


Steve Crowe 29/Jul/95 Lead RP
with KM
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
Dave Douglas 22/Jul/94 Lead RP
with Stuart Cameron
Billg ?/Jul/94 Lead rpt

1st redpoint

sadams ?/Aug/91 -
Hidden ??/1991 -
Hidden 10/Oct/90 Lead dog
Billg ?/Jul/90 Lead RP
with Jon Barton
Paul Clarke ??/1990 Lead
with Andy Watts, Unsure
DDDD ??/1990 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Sep/89 Lead RP
Mike Owen 06/Sep/89 Lead RP
with Dave Hinton
Hidden 26/Jun/89 Lead
ukb & bmc shark 21/Jun/89 Lead RP
Hidden ??/1988 Lead
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High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 45
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set