Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:
Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.
Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.
Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.
Rockfax Description
A superb route which, despite being rebolted, is still a scary proposition. The lower crack is straightforward but the upper wall proves taxing for its whole length with a particularly testing fingery rockover. Move right to the lower-off on Case Adjourned. © Rockfax
FA. Gary Gibson 1985.
Classy Peak Lime 7a to 7b+ , Peak Sport 3 Star Routes 6c+-7c+ , Peak District Limestone top 50 sport up to 8a+ , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , 28 Decent Sport Routes , Peak limestone north graded list - sport , Peak sport , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Lime Time , The Festival Of Shite , Peak sport for mortals , Lime trad for hobbyists , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible
User | Date | Notes | ||
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tintinandpip | 10 Jun |
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βeta: Did this in the late 80s early 90s ? Very good. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Did this in the late 80s early 90s ? Very good. |
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Clare Dean | 30 May, 2020 |
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βeta: Bolting felt okay, not scary, thank you person who added the Petzls. Strange situation with lower off though - there wasn't one! One Petzl at the break then made slight traverse to clip chains at the top of the 7a just to the right instead. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Bolting felt okay, not scary, thank you person who added the Petzls. Strange situation with lower off though - there wasn't one! One Petzl at the break then made slight traverse to clip chains at the top of the 7a just to the right instead. |
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Grade: 7a+ ***
(Chee Dale Lower)