Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:
Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.
Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.
Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.
Rockfax Description
One of the great ticks in the Peak which reaches positions that other E1s don't - an amazing outing. Apart from one hard pull at the start of pitch 2, it is never desperate, but it is pumpy and committing. Retreat from the nose is problematical so take your prusiks if you are nervous. For this reason it makes it a poor route for an inexperienced second.
1) 4c, 25m. Climb up and right across the buttress to a comfortable ledge on the right of the main roofs.
2) 5b, 25m. Move left and make a powerful couple of pulls over the roof. Climb up left to a breather on a pedestal, then surge up and left again on big holds, with increasingly brain-jellying exposure, to reach the very edge of the world. A hard pull gains a bridged rest (at last) in the final groove - amble up this with a grin as wide as the valley. © Rockfax
FA. R.Dearman, R.Brown (aid) 20.12.64. FFA. Unknown 20/Dec/1964.
Hard Rock , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , The Peak: Past and Present , World Graded List , Peak Rock/10/White Life , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Tom Ripley's Top 5 E1 Climbs , Low grade quality Cheedale Trad , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Definitive *** Peak Lime , On Peak Rock , Hard Rock 2020 , Hard Rock 2020 , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Preparation for the Resurrection , Peak District Limestone Trad , 2023 , Lime trad for hobbyists , The Eal List , E1's
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Antonysax | 10 Sep |
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βeta: Lost my yellow micro cam to the route! Sad to see it stuck there, it served me well over the years. Tribute to be held on Monday. Great climb but nails!! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Lost my yellow micro cam to the route! Sad to see it stuck there, it served me well over the years. Tribute to be held on Monday. Great climb but nails!! |
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Jhanshaw | 9 Jul |
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βeta: It's everything you'd expect from looking up at this buttress. Did not dissapoint! Although would benefit from a bolted lower off at the top of the groove. Many loose blocks above! | βeta? | |
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βeta: It's everything you'd expect from looking up at this buttress. Did not dissapoint! Although would benefit from a bolted lower off at the top of the groove. Many loose blocks above! |
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arose | 2 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: abbed from the yew tree (also belayed off it though its slightly left of the top out) in 60m ropes. | βeta? | |
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βeta: abbed from the yew tree (also belayed off it though its slightly left of the top out) in 60m ropes. |
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gjd | 25 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: The giant thread now has a cable in place as a lower off for the sport route below it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The giant thread now has a cable in place as a lower off for the sport route below it. |
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Maoweee | 13 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Large loose block towards the end of 2nd pitch is marked with an 'X'. We abbed off the ash as new green shoots gave some confidence. However we also got our ropes stuck and had to walk round anyway. Would suggest taking trainers and just walking out. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Large loose block towards the end of 2nd pitch is marked with an 'X'. We abbed off the ash as new green shoots gave some confidence. However we also got our ropes stuck and had to walk round anyway. Would suggest taking trainers and just walking out. |
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Duncan Bell | 24 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Old belay tree def dead - growing mould! However, the pine to the left (looking in) is thriving and strong enough for us at least. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Old belay tree def dead - growing mould! However, the pine to the left (looking in) is thriving and strong enough for us at least. |
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Will Mortimer | 28 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: Belay tree looks dead. We decended by walking rightwards (left if you look out) for roughly 30m until it was easy enough to top out up to the main footpath (some bush whacking required). This adds five mins of walking but is much safer than abbing on the suspect tree. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Belay tree looks dead. We decended by walking rightwards (left if you look out) for roughly 30m until it was easy enough to top out up to the main footpath (some bush whacking required). This adds five mins of walking but is much safer than abbing on the suspect tree. |
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orangesmartie61 | 26 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: The belay tree, right of the final groove, is dying but currently has some green leaves and was sound enough for my abseil adverse partner; takes you straight down to the gear up area so watch for loose rocks. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The belay tree, right of the final groove, is dying but currently has some green leaves and was sound enough for my abseil adverse partner; takes you straight down to the gear up area so watch for loose rocks. |
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tom_lewis89 | 15 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Due to the main ab tree being dead we moved climbers right (leftwards if looking out) across from the top to another tree and managed an ab down to the first belay. (quite bush-wacky). wasn't sure on how to walk off and rockfax suggested abbing was better - both seemed like quite bad options. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Due to the main ab tree being dead we moved climbers right (leftwards if looking out) across from the top to another tree and managed an ab down to the first belay. (quite bush-wacky). wasn't sure on how to walk off and rockfax suggested abbing was better - both seemed like quite bad options. |
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Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing | 4 Mar, 2021 |
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βeta: WARNING: THE TREE YOU USE TO BELAY/ABSEIL OFF IS SUFFERING FROM ASH DIEBACK. It is highly recommended that you walk-off. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: WARNING: THE TREE YOU USE TO BELAY/ABSEIL OFF IS SUFFERING FROM ASH DIEBACK. It is highly recommended that you walk-off. |
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johnny87 | 7 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: If there's a good Samaritan, in-situ thread quite fluffy and frayed at start of P2. Fiddly to replace, but probably easiest hanging from the very shiny peg above, or if you're a lank. Didn't have any cord with me on the day. | ||
Show beta
βeta: If there's a good Samaritan, in-situ thread quite fluffy and frayed at start of P2. Fiddly to replace, but probably easiest hanging from the very shiny peg above, or if you're a lank. Didn't have any cord with me on the day. |
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iainJ | 13 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: A 60m rope is adequate, but would recommend halves to save having to do two abs (second hanging from the chain in middle of p2) and barley enough to lead second pitch on one doubled over. Peg at start of p2 is rotten, as is cord. Holds inc. Jugs off legde very loose. Rock across entire pitch questionable at best. Four stars. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A 60m rope is adequate, but would recommend halves to save having to do two abs (second hanging from the chain in middle of p2) and barley enough to lead second pitch on one doubled over. Peg at start of p2 is rotten, as is cord. Holds inc. Jugs off legde very loose. Rock across entire pitch questionable at best. Four stars. |
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Paul Evans | 9 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: Completely wonderful. Yep, 4 stars. Whatever is holding the big pillar on hasn't let go yet. Some in-situ pegs with tat, and at present the thread is in place, though the tat on that looks a little old. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Completely wonderful. Yep, 4 stars. Whatever is holding the big pillar on hasn't let go yet. Some in-situ pegs with tat, and at present the thread is in place, though the tat on that looks a little old. |
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John Alcock | 31 May, 2005 |
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βeta: 4 stars definitely. An all time classic. The move off the belay ledge is 5c and a bitch for the short. | βeta? | |
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βeta: 4 stars definitely. An all time classic. The move off the belay ledge is 5c and a bitch for the short. |
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Gripped | 3 May, 2005 |
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βeta: So much fun I’m surprised it hasn’t been made illegal! Exposed, but never really difficult at any point. Jugs and good feet all the way. | βeta? | |
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βeta: So much fun I’m surprised it hasn’t been made illegal! Exposed, but never really difficult at any point. Jugs and good feet all the way. |
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Adam Lincoln | 8 Dec, 2004 |
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βeta: What a hero | βeta? | |
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βeta: What a hero |
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MNA123 | 8 Dec, 2004 |
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βeta: i don't advice trying to climb this after 12hrs of drinking and only 3 hrs sleep the day before.I proper bottled it and ended up climbing a dirty gully to the right.It's all good fun. | βeta? | |
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βeta: i don't advice trying to climb this after 12hrs of drinking and only 3 hrs sleep the day before.I proper bottled it and ended up climbing a dirty gully to the right.It's all good fun. |
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The Pylon King | 3 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: Simply F**king Brilliant (SFB for short) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Simply F**king Brilliant (SFB for short) |
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Grade: E1 5c ***
(Stanage Popular)