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50m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the great ticks in the Peak which reaches positions that other E1s don't - an amazing outing. Apart from one hard pull at the start of pitch 2, it is never desperate, but it is pumpy and committing. Retreat from the nose is problematical so take your prusiks if you are nervous. For this reason it makes it a poor route for an inexperienced second.
1) 4c, 25m. Climb up and right across the buttress to a comfortable ledge on the right of the main roofs.
2) 5b, 25m. Move left and make a powerful couple of pulls over the roof. Climb up left to a breather on a pedestal, then surge up and left again on big holds, with increasingly brain-jellying exposure, to reach the very edge of the world. A hard pull gains a bridged rest (at last) in the final groove - amble up this with a grin as wide as the valley. © Rockfax

FA. R.Dearman, R.Brown (aid) 20.12.64. FFA. Unknown 20/Dec/1964.

Ticklists

Hard Rock, Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50, Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, The Peak: Past and Present, World Graded List, Peak Rock/10/White Life, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Tom Ripley's Top 5 E1 Climbs, Low grade quality Cheedale Trad, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Definitive *** Peak Lime, On Peak Rock, Hard Rock 2020, Hard Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
johnny87 7 Sep Show βeta
βeta: If there's a good Samaritan, in-situ thread quite fluffy and frayed at start of P2. Fiddly to replace, but probably easiest hanging from the very shiny peg above, or if you're a lank. Didn't have any cord with me on the day.
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βeta: If there's a good Samaritan, in-situ thread quite fluffy and frayed at start of P2. Fiddly to replace, but probably easiest hanging from the very shiny peg above, or if you're a lank. Didn't have any cord with me on the day.
iainJ 13 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: A 60m rope is adequate, but would recommend halves to save having to do two abs (second hanging from the chain in middle of p2) and barley enough to lead second pitch on one doubled over. Peg at start of p2 is rotten, as is cord. Holds inc. Jugs off legde very loose. Rock across entire pitch questionable at best. Four stars.
βeta?
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βeta: A 60m rope is adequate, but would recommend halves to save having to do two abs (second hanging from the chain in middle of p2) and barley enough to lead second pitch on one doubled over. Peg at start of p2 is rotten, as is cord. Holds inc. Jugs off legde very loose. Rock across entire pitch questionable at best. Four stars.
Paul Evans 9 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Completely wonderful. Yep, 4 stars. Whatever is holding the big pillar on hasn't let go yet. Some in-situ pegs with tat, and at present the thread is in place, though the tat on that looks a little old.
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βeta: Completely wonderful. Yep, 4 stars. Whatever is holding the big pillar on hasn't let go yet. Some in-situ pegs with tat, and at present the thread is in place, though the tat on that looks a little old.
John Alcock 31 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: 4 stars definitely. An all time classic. The move off the belay ledge is 5c and a bitch for the short.
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βeta: 4 stars definitely. An all time classic. The move off the belay ledge is 5c and a bitch for the short.
Gripped 3 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: So much fun I’m surprised it hasn’t been made illegal! Exposed, but never really difficult at any point. Jugs and good feet all the way.
βeta?
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βeta: So much fun I’m surprised it hasn’t been made illegal! Exposed, but never really difficult at any point. Jugs and good feet all the way.
Adam Lincoln 8 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: What a hero
βeta?
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βeta: What a hero
MNA123 8 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: i don't advice trying to climb this after 12hrs of drinking and only 3 hrs sleep the day before.I proper bottled it and ended up climbing a dirty gully to the right.It's all good fun.
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βeta: i don't advice trying to climb this after 12hrs of drinking and only 3 hrs sleep the day before.I proper bottled it and ended up climbing a dirty gully to the right.It's all good fun.
Mark S Davies 3 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Simply F**king Brilliant (SFB for short)
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βeta: Simply F**king Brilliant (SFB for short)

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 96
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 92
Votes cast 98
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Lime Street Direct

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Willersley Castle Rocks)