UKC

Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
  • Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.

Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.

Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.

50m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the great ticks in the Peak which reaches positions that other E1s don't - an amazing outing. Apart from one hard pull at the start of pitch 2, it is never desperate, but it is pumpy and committing. Retreat from the nose is problematical so take your prusiks if you are nervous. For this reason it makes it a poor route for an inexperienced second.
1) 4c, 25m. Climb up and right across the buttress to a comfortable ledge on the right of the main roofs.
2) 5b, 25m. Move left and make a powerful couple of pulls over the roof. Climb up left to a breather on a pedestal, then surge up and left again on big holds, with increasingly brain-jellying exposure, to reach the very edge of the world. A hard pull gains a bridged rest (at last) in the final groove - amble up this with a grin as wide as the valley. © Rockfax

FA. R.Dearman, R.Brown (aid) 20.12.64. FFA. Unknown 20/Dec/1964.

Ticklists

Hard Rock , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , The Peak: Past and Present , World Graded List , Peak Rock/10/White Life , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Tom Ripley's Top 5 E1 Climbs , Low grade quality Cheedale Trad , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Definitive *** Peak Lime , On Peak Rock , Hard Rock 2020 , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Preparation for the Resurrection , Peak District Limestone Trad , 2023 , Lime trad for hobbyists , The Eal List , E1's

Feedback

User Date Notes
Antonysax 10 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Lost my yellow micro cam to the route! Sad to see it stuck there, it served me well over the years. Tribute to be held on Monday. Great climb but nails!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lost my yellow micro cam to the route! Sad to see it stuck there, it served me well over the years. Tribute to be held on Monday. Great climb but nails!!
Jhanshaw 9 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: It's everything you'd expect from looking up at this buttress. Did not dissapoint! Although would benefit from a bolted lower off at the top of the groove. Many loose blocks above!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It's everything you'd expect from looking up at this buttress. Did not dissapoint! Although would benefit from a bolted lower off at the top of the groove. Many loose blocks above!
arose 2 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: abbed from the yew tree (also belayed off it though its slightly left of the top out) in 60m ropes.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: abbed from the yew tree (also belayed off it though its slightly left of the top out) in 60m ropes.
gjd 25 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The giant thread now has a cable in place as a lower off for the sport route below it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The giant thread now has a cable in place as a lower off for the sport route below it.
Maoweee 13 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Large loose block towards the end of 2nd pitch is marked with an 'X'. We abbed off the ash as new green shoots gave some confidence. However we also got our ropes stuck and had to walk round anyway. Would suggest taking trainers and just walking out.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Large loose block towards the end of 2nd pitch is marked with an 'X'. We abbed off the ash as new green shoots gave some confidence. However we also got our ropes stuck and had to walk round anyway. Would suggest taking trainers and just walking out.
Duncan Bell 24 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Old belay tree def dead - growing mould! However, the pine to the left (looking in) is thriving and strong enough for us at least.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Old belay tree def dead - growing mould! However, the pine to the left (looking in) is thriving and strong enough for us at least.
Will Mortimer 28 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Belay tree looks dead. We decended by walking rightwards (left if you look out) for roughly 30m until it was easy enough to top out up to the main footpath (some bush whacking required). This adds five mins of walking but is much safer than abbing on the suspect tree.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Belay tree looks dead. We decended by walking rightwards (left if you look out) for roughly 30m until it was easy enough to top out up to the main footpath (some bush whacking required). This adds five mins of walking but is much safer than abbing on the suspect tree.
orangesmartie61 26 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The belay tree, right of the final groove, is dying but currently has some green leaves and was sound enough for my abseil adverse partner; takes you straight down to the gear up area so watch for loose rocks.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The belay tree, right of the final groove, is dying but currently has some green leaves and was sound enough for my abseil adverse partner; takes you straight down to the gear up area so watch for loose rocks.
tom_lewis89 15 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Due to the main ab tree being dead we moved climbers right (leftwards if looking out) across from the top to another tree and managed an ab down to the first belay. (quite bush-wacky). wasn't sure on how to walk off and rockfax suggested abbing was better - both seemed like quite bad options.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Due to the main ab tree being dead we moved climbers right (leftwards if looking out) across from the top to another tree and managed an ab down to the first belay. (quite bush-wacky). wasn't sure on how to walk off and rockfax suggested abbing was better - both seemed like quite bad options.
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 4 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: WARNING: THE TREE YOU USE TO BELAY/ABSEIL OFF IS SUFFERING FROM ASH DIEBACK. It is highly recommended that you walk-off.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: WARNING: THE TREE YOU USE TO BELAY/ABSEIL OFF IS SUFFERING FROM ASH DIEBACK. It is highly recommended that you walk-off.
johnny87 7 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: If there's a good Samaritan, in-situ thread quite fluffy and frayed at start of P2. Fiddly to replace, but probably easiest hanging from the very shiny peg above, or if you're a lank. Didn't have any cord with me on the day.
Show beta
βeta: If there's a good Samaritan, in-situ thread quite fluffy and frayed at start of P2. Fiddly to replace, but probably easiest hanging from the very shiny peg above, or if you're a lank. Didn't have any cord with me on the day.
iainJ 13 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: A 60m rope is adequate, but would recommend halves to save having to do two abs (second hanging from the chain in middle of p2) and barley enough to lead second pitch on one doubled over. Peg at start of p2 is rotten, as is cord. Holds inc. Jugs off legde very loose. Rock across entire pitch questionable at best. Four stars.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A 60m rope is adequate, but would recommend halves to save having to do two abs (second hanging from the chain in middle of p2) and barley enough to lead second pitch on one doubled over. Peg at start of p2 is rotten, as is cord. Holds inc. Jugs off legde very loose. Rock across entire pitch questionable at best. Four stars.
Paul Evans 9 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Completely wonderful. Yep, 4 stars. Whatever is holding the big pillar on hasn't let go yet. Some in-situ pegs with tat, and at present the thread is in place, though the tat on that looks a little old.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Completely wonderful. Yep, 4 stars. Whatever is holding the big pillar on hasn't let go yet. Some in-situ pegs with tat, and at present the thread is in place, though the tat on that looks a little old.
John Alcock 31 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: 4 stars definitely. An all time classic. The move off the belay ledge is 5c and a bitch for the short.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 4 stars definitely. An all time classic. The move off the belay ledge is 5c and a bitch for the short.
Gripped 3 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: So much fun I’m surprised it hasn’t been made illegal! Exposed, but never really difficult at any point. Jugs and good feet all the way.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: So much fun I’m surprised it hasn’t been made illegal! Exposed, but never really difficult at any point. Jugs and good feet all the way.
Adam Lincoln 8 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: What a hero
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: What a hero
MNA123 8 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: i don't advice trying to climb this after 12hrs of drinking and only 3 hrs sleep the day before.I proper bottled it and ended up climbing a dirty gully to the right.It's all good fun.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i don't advice trying to climb this after 12hrs of drinking and only 3 hrs sleep the day before.I proper bottled it and ended up climbing a dirty gully to the right.It's all good fun.
The Pylon King 3 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Simply F**king Brilliant (SFB for short)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Simply F**king Brilliant (SFB for short)

Logged Ascents

617 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Chee Dale Upper

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 279 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 105
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 100
Votes cast 109
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Flying Buttress Direct

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)

Loading Notifications...